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The Regulatory Shift at Heathrow Heathrow could be forced to allow other companies to design and build its third runway and new terminal after the UK aviation regulator argued that rival bids could keep construction costs down. A long-awaited review by the Civil Aviation Authority (CAA) proposes changes to the regulatory model that governs how Heathrow runs and covers its costs. Competitive Construction Model These changes include making the operator seek bids from other businesses to design, build and operate parts of the long-delayed expansion project at Europe's busiest airport. The CAA stated this approach "would allow for direct competition between Heathrow and an alternative developer … [that] could encourage competition and efficiency." Radical Terminal Proposal The CAA's most radical suggestion, which would require special approval from the government, would allow another developer to tender to build and run their own terminals at Heathrow, similar to a scheme at JFK airport in New York. This represents a significant departure from the traditional model where a single operator controls all aspects of airport operations. Timeline and Current Status Last November ministers backed Heathrow's plan for the runway to be up and running by 2035, over the rival proposal submitted by Arora Group. The airport operator is still seeking formal planning approval to start construction by 2029. Earlier this month, Philip Jansen, Heathrow's new chair, moved to open talks with airlines and Arora Group's chair, Surinder Arora, to attempt to progress plans amid a row over costs. Financial Pressures and Cost Concerns British Airways dominates Heathrow, accounting for more than 50% of slots, and Luis Gallego, the chief executive of BA's owner, International Airlines Group, has said the cost of the third runway and associated works must be capped at £30bn. Heathrow is considered to be Europe's most expensive airport, and in March the UK aviation regulator rejected its plans to significantly raise its landing fees to fund a multibillion-pound upgrade. Key Financial Figures: Heathrow's proposed cost cap: £30bn Arora Group's alternative scheme: £25bn Target operational date: 2035 Planned construction start: 2029 (pending approval) The Competitive Landscape Arora has been promoting his own £25bn expansion scheme and is part of Heathrow Reimagined, which also includes BA and Virgin. This group is campaigning to drastically reduce the costs of operating at the airport. "Two years ago competition at Heathrow wasn't on the cards and now is very much alive and kicking because the case for change is so strong," said Arora, the founder of Arora Group. Regulatory Challenges The CAA acknowledged there could be difficulties in implementing a model allowing rival bidders. "This model could encourage competition and efficiency," the regulator said. "Nonetheless, there would also be some complications in implementing such a model. It would be important to ensure that an approach involving the build, operation, ownership of assets and direct competition with Heathrow worked in a way to further the interests of consumers across the whole airport." Heathrow's Response Heathrow warned that the proposals could "undermine efforts" to expand the airport and produce growth. A Heathrow spokesperson emphasized: "Economic growth is key to tackling the cost of living crisis. We have a clear plan to invest billions of pounds of private capital to upgrade and expand the UK's hub airport – creating jobs and growth across the country." Future Outlook The proposals mark a significant shift in how Europe's busiest airport might be developed, potentially introducing a more competitive model similar to other international airports. The outcome will depend on government decisions and how effectively the CAA can balance consumer interests with operational efficiency. Heathrow, owned by a consortium led by French company Ardian and including sovereign wealth funds of Qatar, Singapore and Saudi Arabia, will likely continue to advocate for its current expansion model while navigating these new regulatory pressures.

The Lead: Trump-Xi Summit Concludes with Claims of Resolved IssuesPresident Donald Trump wrapped up his state visit to China by meeting with President Xi Jinping in Beijing's Zhongnanhai leadership compound, claiming to have settled "a lot of different problems" that previous administrations couldn't resolve. The US president described the visit as "incredible" and emphasized the strength of his personal relationship with Xi, while highlighting what he called "fantastic trade deals" for both countries.The Event Details: Final Day of Diplomatic EngagementThe meeting marked the final day of Trump's summit in China, where the two leaders engaged in both formal discussions and private conversations. Trump specifically mentioned their agreement on Iran, stating both countries share similar views on preventing Iran from acquiring nuclear weapons and keeping the Strait of Hormuz open. "We want them to get it ended because it's a crazy thing there," Trump added regarding the Iranian situation.Following the approximately two-hour meeting, Trump was escorted to Beijing Airport by Chinese Foreign Minister Wang Yi, where a red carpet ceremony awaited. The departure was marked by dozens of schoolchildren waving both American and Chinese flags and chanting "farewell" in unison, symbolizing the carefully choreographed nature of diplomatic protocol.The Impact Analysis: Shifting Dynamics in US-China RelationsThis summit represents a significant moment in US-China relations, coming at a time of heightened trade tensions and geopolitical competition. Trump's emphasis on personal diplomacy and his claim to have resolved longstanding issues suggests a potential recalibration in how the two superpowers engage with each other. The public display of warmth between the leaders contrasts with the often-contentious relationship between their administrations, indicating a possible pragmatic approach to managing differences while seeking common ground.The focus on trade deals and Iran suggests both nations are prioritizing economic security and regional stability, potentially at the expense of addressing human rights concerns and broader geopolitical competition that have characterized recent years of US-China relations.The Prediction: Future Trajectory of Bilateral RelationsLooking ahead, the Trump-Xi summit may signal a period of pragmatic engagement where both countries prioritize economic cooperation and crisis management over ideological confrontation. However, the fundamental structural challenges in the relationship—including technological competition, security concerns in the Indo-Pacific, and differing political systems—remain unchanged. The coming months will reveal whether this apparent thaw represents a genuine shift toward more stable relations or merely a tactical pause in ongoing strategic competition.Trade relations, in particular, will be a key indicator of the summit's lasting impact, with implementation details of the "fantastic trade deals" Trump mentioned likely to face scrutiny from businesses, investors, and policymakers in both countries.

The FA's Search for a New England Manager In 2024, the Football Association tasked itself with finding Gareth Southgate's successor. To do this, they hired two external data companies to build a profile of what successful international managers looked like, then tailored it to mesh with England's player base. The Profiling Process The top 50 coaches in the world were matched against the criteria and a shortlist emerged. The FA's chief executive, Mark Bullingham, joked that the list could have been compiled in a pub in 10 minutes, but the data was valuable in seeing the relative strengths and weaknesses of each coach. The Super-Elite Category Three distinct categories emerged: coaches with high potential, 'elite' coaches achieving top results, and 'super-elite' coaches who had won big and managed top players. The FA focused on the 'super-elite' category, which included Thomas Tuchel. The Meeting with Tuchel The FA's approach to Tuchel was personal, patient, and discreet. John McDermott traveled to Munich for face-to-face discussions, where he was met with enthusiasm from Tuchel. A meeting was organized at a German airport, where the FA hired a private room and McDermott and Bullingham flew in on separate flights. Tuchel's Presentation Tuchel impressed the FA with a PowerPoint presentation on how to put a second star on the England shirt, which was well thought through and detailed. The presentation included plans for the next 18 months, how he would get the best out of players, and how he would maintain relationships.

The Diplomatic Opening in BeijingOne day into US President Donald Trump's visit to China for trade talks, both he and Chinese President Xi Jinping have exchanged toasts at a state banquet at the Great Hall of the People in Beijing, and hailed their relationship as the world's most "consequential". On Thursday, following a visit to the Temple of Heaven, a 600-year-old landmark in the Chinese capital, Xi spoke of a "shared US-China future", while also warning that failure to handle this bond would create a "very dangerous situation"."We must make it work and never mess it up," he said.The Personal Diplomacy Between LeadersThe US president described his Chinese counterpart as "my friend" in his opening remarks at the state banquet that Xi hosted for the American leader. "We are going to have a fantastic future together. I have such respect for China, for the job you've done. You are a great leader," he told Xi.Trump also invited Xi and First Lady Peng Liyuan to pay a return visit to the White House on September 24. For his part, the Chinese president said he was "very happy" to meet Trump in Beijing at a time of "historic turbulence" when "the world stands at a new crossroads".Xi posed a series of questions to the US president: "Can we join hands to address global challenges and inject greater stability into the world? Can we uphold the wellbeing of our respective peoples and the shared future of humanity, working together to create a bright future for our bilateral relationship?"China's reception underscored how highly Xi regards this visit. Trump was welcomed at the Great Hall of the People, the seat of power in China, "the equivalent of the White House and all other important centres of power combined". Additionally, Vice President Han Zheng greeted Trump at the airport when he landed in Beijing on Wednesday, making him the highest-ranking Chinese official to ever welcome a US president.Strategic Framework for Bilateral RelationsXi and Trump agreed to frame their relationship as "constructive, strategic and stable" in a new positioning that is intended to guide US-China ties for the next three years and beyond, according to a Chinese Foreign Ministry statement about talks between the two.Trump said the relationship between the two countries went back to the founding of the US, noting that the early American traders who visited China were described, by the Chinese, as "the new people". Today, he said, the two countries' bilateral ties were among "the most consequential" in the world.The Chinese president said the two countries should become partners, rather than rivals, adding that "mutual respect is key to stable China-US ties". "I have always believed that the common interests between China and the US outweigh the differences," Xi said. "Let 2026 be a historic and landmark year for Sino-US relations to carry on the past and open up the future."Trade and Economic NegotiationsTrump and Xi discussed trade, with Xi saying that China's door of opportunity will open wider. What this means is not explicitly clear yet, but Trump will be hoping it includes a Chinese pledge to buy US soya beans, beef and aircraft. Officials in the Trump administration also hope to move towards setting up a Board of Trade with China to manage commercial disputes between the two countries.Xi also met with US business leaders who have accompanied Trump on this trip on Thursday. The US and China entered a tariff threat standoff last year, with each side imposing retaliatory tariffs on each other's exports. China also restricted exports of some rare-earth metals, which are crucial for technology manufacturing, in April. Later in the year, it announced plans to restrict several others. Those later plans are on pause since a truce was agreed between the two presidents in October last year on the sidelines of the APEC summit in South Korea.In return for China's agreement to pause restrictions on rare-earth metal exports, Trump dropped a threat of 100 percent tariffs on Chinese goods.The Taiwan ChallengeThe Taiwanese government maintains that the self-governing island of 23 million people is a sovereign state. During the meeting on Thursday, Xi reportedly warned Trump that the issue of Taiwan – which China regards as its own territory – could lead to conflict between Washington and Beijing if it is not handled carefully.However, Taiwan was not mentioned in a joint statement following the meeting, and Trump notably ignored a question from reporters about his stance on Taiwan. This is a tricky issue for the US. While the US government officially acknowledges that China views Taiwan as part of its territory, it does not explicitly state whether or not it agrees with that stance.The US formally severed official diplomatic ties with Taiwan – also known as the Republic of China – decades ago, but remains committed under the 1979 Taiwan Relations Act to supporting the defence of the self-governing democracy. That law has enabled Washington to supply Taiwan with billions of dollars' worth of weapons and to deepen cooperation in areas such as military training and intelligence sharing, moves Beijing regards as meddling in its internal affairs.Xi has told Trump that the "Taiwan question is the most important issue in China-US relations", Chinese Foreign Ministry spokesperson Mao Ning posted on X on Thursday. "If it is handled properly, the bilateral relationship will enjoy overall stability. Otherwise, the two countries will have clashes and even conflicts, putting the entire relationship in great jeopardy," she wrote.Taiwan's Foreign Ministry released a statement saying that China is "currently the sole risk to regional peace and stability", after Xi warned Trump. "Beijing has no right to make any claims on behalf of Taiwan internationally," the statement added.Global Security CooperationThe US-Israel war on Iran, which entered its 76th day on Thursday, also came up in the meeting between Trump and Xi. In their joint statement, Trump and Xi agreed that the Strait of Hormuz must remain open and Iran should never have nuclear weapons.US officials have previously said that they might need China's help in convincing Iran to open the Strait of Hormuz. But analysts say Beijing will want concessions from the US, likely regarding Taiwan, in exchange for any aid in resolving the crisis.Future Outlook for US-China RelationsTrump and Xi may meet again on at least two other occasions this year – the Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation (APEC) leaders' meeting, in Shenzhen, China, in November; and the Group of 20 (G20) summit in Miami, Florida in the US in December. It would be unprecedented for the US president to travel to China twice in one year.The tone set during these initial talks suggests both sides recognize the importance of managing their complex relationship carefully. Xi's warning about not "messing it up" indicates the high stakes involved, while Trump's personal approach and emphasis on friendship suggests he may be seeking a personal channel for diplomacy alongside official channels.As both nations navigate differences on trade, Taiwan, and global security issues, the framework they've established as "constructive, strategic and stable" will be tested in the coming months. The frequency of their planned meetings suggests both sides understand the need for constant communication to prevent misunderstandings that could escalate into conflict.

Family Tragedy Highlights Growing Zimbabwe‑Russia Trafficking PipelineElvis Sitshela of Harare recounts how his brother Dumisani vanished to Russia in early 2026, only to learn later that he may be fighting in Ukraine. The personal story underscores a broader, covert operation that lures unemployed Zimbabweans with lucrative promises and ships them to the front lines.Human‑Trafficking Rings Accused of Sending Zimbabweans to Fight in UkraineIn late March, four suspects—Obert Hlavati, Tonderai Maphosa, Tanaka Malcon Gwarada and Edson Dudzayi Nyamudeza—appeared before Harare Magistrates’ Court on human‑trafficking charges. Prosecutors allege they conspired with a Russian national, Ivan, to transport six Zimbabweans to Russia, where they were forced into combat.Two brothers intercepted at Joshua Mqabuko Nkomo International Airport claimed they were heading to a university event in Moscow.Investigations by journalist Ezra Sibanda reveal a cross‑border network operating from Zimbabwe, South Africa and Moscow.Numbers Reveal a Grim Toll: 18 Dead, Only Four RepatriatedGovernment spokesperson Nick Mangwana disclosed that eighteen Zimbabweans have died while serving with Russian forces, yet the state has managed to repatriate only four. Documentation problems and the clandestine nature of the recruitment process stall further returns.Sign‑on bonuses reported up to $37,000, with monthly wages around $4,000.Only a fraction of promised payments—approximately $2,000—reaches families before the scheme collapses.Why the Crisis Is Escalating: Economic Desperation, Rogue Recruiters, and Weak OversightMinister of Information Zhemu Soda blames predatory employment agencies that exploit high unemployment and low wages in Zimbabwe and the diaspora. Social‑media ads, false promises of construction or truck‑driver jobs, and the lack of a regulatory framework enable traffickers to operate with impunity.Former Senator Tshepiso Helen Mpofu urges citizens to verify overseas opportunities and calls on the government to prioritize genuine job creation.What Comes Next: Calls for Bilateral Action and Regional SafeguardsElvis’s appeal to both Harare and Moscow reflects a growing demand for coordinated diplomatic pressure. Suggested steps include:Establishing a joint Zimbabwe‑Russia task force to identify and extract trafficked nationals.Strengthening border checks and intelligence sharing with South Africa.Launching public awareness campaigns about recruitment scams.Journalist Sibanda reports ongoing engagement with Zimbabwean authorities, who have expressed “positive response” and are compiling a list of citizens caught in the mercenary pipeline.

The Lead: Inevitable Fare Increases Due to Fuel CrisisIncreases in air fares for travellers in Europe are "inevitable" over the peak summer period because of the high cost of jet fuel, according to the head of the international aviation body. While some airlines have recently reduced European fares due to weak demand, Willie Walsh, the former British Airways boss who leads the International Air Transport Association, said there was no way carriers could absorb the extra costs in the long run.The Event Details: Middle East Tensions Disrupt Fuel SupplyWalsh told the BBC there was no need to panic over potential jet fuel shortages this summer, and believes that widespread cancellations of flights can be avoided. However, he warned rising fuel prices would inevitably push up ticket prices. Even if the strait of Hormuz were to reopen tomorrow, the impact of disruption caused by the US-Israeli war on Iran could still be felt into next year. Iran's effective closure of the strait, a key shipping route, has sent the cost of jet fuel soaring.The Data Analysis: Fuel Shortages and Flight Reductions"Over time it's inevitable that the high price of oil will be reflected in higher ticket prices," Walsh said. He noted that the UK typically sees a 25% increase in flights and fuel requirements in July and August compared to March. Some long-haul flights have already risen in price. The UK and the rest of Europe are highly reliant on imports of jet fuel from the Middle East, and have been scrambling to find alternative supplies. Airlines have axed 296 departures from UK airports this month, equivalent to 0.75% of the total, according to Aviation analytics company Cirium.The Impact Analysis: Industry and Government ResponsesLast week, the EU said there was no regulatory reason why US-grade jet fuel should not be used by European airlines, as long as its introduction was managed carefully. This week the EU's energy commissioner, Dan Jørgensen, said while there was no immediate threat to jet fuel supplies, there could be shortages in the longer term. The chief executive of the travel operator Tui, Sebastian Ebel, said he did not expect shortages over the coming months. The UK's transport secretary, Heidi Alexander, said summer holiday plans would not face major disruption because of shortages, noting more fuel had been imported from America and UK refineries had increased production. The government has also introduced a temporary rule change, allowing airlines to group passengers from different flights together on fewer planes to save fuel.The Prediction: Extended Fuel Crisis Through 2027Walsh warned fuel shortages could continue into 2027. "Whichever way you look at it, I think this issue will continue for a number of months to come, and may indeed continue into next year," he said. Separately, the Home Office announced that children aged eight and nine returning to the UK from abroad would be able to use e-gates at airports and other re-entry points, from 8 July. By lowering the minimum age from 10, the government believes up to 1.5 million more children will be able to use e-gates.

The LeadIran's national football team, Team Melli, was given a grand sendoff by thousands of fans in Tehran's Enqelab Square as they prepare to travel to the United States for the 2026 FIFA World Cup. The celebration comes amid significant political concerns about whether the Iranian delegation will be able to enter the US due to tensions between the two nations and the IRGC's designation as a terrorist entity.The Public CelebrationThe departure rally witnessed an enthusiastic crowd cheering for the players as they made patriotic statements from a stage on May 13, 2026. The event marked the unveiling of Iran's new World Cup 2026 kit. Mehdi Taj, president of the Football Federation Islamic Republic of Iran (FFIRI), described it as "the best sendoff in the last four World Cup campaigns.""The players are with the people, and the crowd stands with the country's dignity, honour, and strength. Whatever the result, may Iran's flag be raised there and defended," Taj told state TV, emphasizing the national significance of the team's participation.The Political HurdlesIran's participation in the World Cup has been in question since the US and Israel attacked Iran, starting a regional war on February 28. The concerns were further amplified when an FFIRI delegation, led by Taj, was turned back at Toronto's main airport, citing "unacceptable behaviour of immigration officials" despite holding valid visas.In 2024, Canada listed Iran's Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps as a terrorist organisation, and statements from the Canadian government indicated that Taj was denied entry due to his alleged ties with the IRGC. Similar concerns exist for the US, where the IRGC is also classified as a "terrorist entity," and Secretary of State Marco Rubio has stated that no one with ties to the organisation would be admitted to the country.The World Cup PreparationDespite the political uncertainties, Iran is proceeding with its World Cup preparations. Following the sendoff event, the team will travel to Turkiye to continue training at a camp. Iran has scheduled a World Cup warm-up match against The Gambia in Antalya on May 29, with the FFIRI in the process of arranging another friendly during their time in Turkiye.Iran is scheduled to be based in Tucson, Arizona during the World Cup and will face New Zealand, Belgium, and Egypt in Group G. The Iranians will open their World Cup campaign against New Zealand in Los Angeles on June 15.The FIFA InterventionIran has placed responsibility for getting the players and team officials into the US firmly in the hands of FIFA. "Nothing has arrived yet regarding the visas. We hope it will definitely be handled within this timeframe," Hedayat Mombeini, FFIRI secretary-general, told state TV at the rally."FIFA has made promises, and hopefully those promises will lead to results, and the players will receive their visas on time," Mombeini added, highlighting the football governing body's role in navigating the diplomatic challenges. FIFA has insisted for weeks that Iran will take part in the tournament, positioning itself as a diplomatic mediator in the situation.

The Cultural Phenomenon Returns On a chilly morning at a Silvertown studio behind London City airport, the sunburst intro to Jimmy Cliff's The Harder They Come is on repeat. Dancers run through a routine studded with reggae and dancehall moves. "Get high," commands associate choreographer Neisha-yen Jones with a smile. "Get low!" The ensemble rise and dip. They do the bogle and whine around each other as their watchful director Matthew Xia nods along. They circle Natey Jones who breaks out the opening line: "Well, they tell me of a pie up in the sky." In the distance, a plane leaves the ground. From Film to Theatrical Celebration It's eight months since The Harder They Come's full-throttle takeoff at Stratford East, where the musical was so popular that it is now returning for a second run which will also serve as a eulogy for Cliff who died in November. Playwright Suzan-Lori Parks' adaptation of Perry Henzell's 1972 Jamaican film is bolstered by a handful of her own songs as well as classics including Israelites and Wonderful World, Beautiful People – plus every number on the film's monumental soundtrack. Jones is reprising the role of Ivan (played on screen by Cliff and inspired by real-life outlaw Rhyging), who arrives in Kingston from the country and is dismissed and exploited, before becoming both a hit singer and a fugitive. The Evolution of a Cultural Narrative The original was akin to cinéma vérité, directly evoked spaghetti westerns and veered into blaxploitation territory; Ivan's tale has gained greater warmth, humour and protest spirit on stage. It was the best musical I saw in 2025. "The story is a tragedy but the theatrical event is a celebration," says Xia of his production. Twenty years ago, the film was adapted as a musical with a book by Henzell, also at Stratford East. "It all started at Ivan's Nine Night," Xia recalls. "There was a massive poster of Ivan on the wall, with everyone coming, and it was told in retrospect with vignettes." Choreography and Cultural Connection Shelley Maxwell, recently arrived from Jamaica, was watching the musical in the audience one night and has since become the choreographer of the new production. She has fused the folk dance forms of revivalism and pocomania, learned in her childhood, with reggae, dancehall and moves that today's teenagers can recognise. "I wanted to tap into the youth market," she says. It's brought some enthusiastic feedback from audience members who may not know the film. "Like: 'Oh my God, they did that step I always do at a party!' It allows them to form a connection." Authenticity and Cultural Representation Xia, wearing trainers in the Jamaican flag's colours, and Maxwell, whose tracksuit has the same black, green and gold trim, were intent on instantly transporting their audience to Kingston. The opening, says the director, is an "establishing shot" with characters coming and going on Simon Kenny's magnificent multi-level set, accompanied by Toots and the Maytals' hit Funky Kingston. To borrow from its lyrics, you really can believe everything they do. Even each move in the dominoes game we see is scripted, explains Maxwell, who mapped out the market scene with precision: "Where are you going to? How heavy is the item that you're holding? This is the swing of the hips." Social Commentary Through Performance Xia, whose father came to England from Jamaica in the 1970s, praises the freewheeling realism of the film. "Lots of the background performers are just whoever happened to be in the market that day, or walking through the shantytown. Lots of the actors were people that Perry knew, they had no training." Henzell, says Xia, showed "the part of Jamaica that had always been hidden, people living hand to mouth". The musical depicts a "quartet of oppression" against Ivan, as he takes a stand against individuals representing hypocrisies of the church, law, drugs trade and music industry. Universal Themes and Contemporary Relevance The Harder They Come was both a pioneering example of independent film-making for Jamaicans and a portrait of a newly independent country. Maxwell, who grew up glued to Hollywood musicals, says it was empowering to discover a film full of the Jamaican songs she loved. "I was probably way too young when I saw it. But what I saw was the world around me." She traces how different forms of music played a pivotal part in the country establishing its identity, moving from African forms and American R&B; to mento, ska, rocksteady, reggae and the rise of Bob Marley and Jimmy Cliff. Maxwell captures that chain reaction with a tantalizing question: "What's this groove becoming?" Transforming the Narrative for Modern Audiences The musical also makes its hero's actions more understandable. "In the film, Ivan becomes a kind of wanton murderer," says Xia. In the musical, "he accidentally shoots a police officer when he's under threat, is remorseful, yet also knows that if he gives himself in then that's the end of his journey". Another significant change is the depth given to the principal women – Ivan's mother Daisy and Elsa, with whom he falls in love under the eye of her authoritarian guardian, the preacher. "The moral heart of the piece now resides in those two women," says Xia. Maxwell transforms a brief sequence from the film, in which Ivan imagines a tryst with the devout Elsa, into a floor-trembling set piece when the preacher's congregation lose their robes to indulge in lustful fantasy. The male gaze of the original scene is duly excised: "it had to be like it was both of them in partnership in that fantasy world," says Maxwell, who adds that the nature of dancehall – "grinding, gyrating on another body" required her to use her skillset as an intimacy director.

The Unparalleled Experience of CannesNothing prepares you for the shock that is the Cannes film festival: the adrenaline, the fatigue, the elation and the emotion, but also the hunger, the anger, the magic and the ridicule. For young cinephiles, and for almost everybody who works in the film industry, it is the mecca of cinema and has been so for nearly eight decades. Anyone going for the first time this week, as I did 25 years ago, should not listen to the old grognards – Cannes' battle-worn veterans – who will lament that the festival has become an abominable circus and swear this year will be their last. It is a circus, and you can bet they will be back for as long as their knees can take it. For there is nothing quite like it.From Resistance to Global Cinema HubBorn to counteract Benito Mussolini's Venice film festival, its first edition was planned for September 1939, but Adolf Hitler had other plans. The previous year, under pressure from Berlin and Rome, the Venice film festival's top prize, the Coppa Mussolini, was handed to Leni Riefenstahl's propaganda film Olympia, prompting the French, British and American delegates to walk out. Hence Cannes, conceived as the festival of the "free world". More than 80 years later, for all its sins, it has remained faithful to that founding promise.The Expansive Scale of Modern CannesOver the decades, Cannes has mutated into an ever-hungrier mammoth, needing more space, and more venues, as it attracts an increasing number of journalists and professionals. A purpose-built Palais des Festivals had to be erected in the 1980s. "The bunker", as we have come to call it, is not exactly beautiful but brutally efficient at managing Cannes' mind-boggling crowds. This year, about 40,000 accredited festival-goers are descending on the French Riviera from 140 different countries, with dozens of films selected across all sidebars. At the same time, the Marché du Film, running alongside the festival since the late 1960s, is gathering about 16,000 participants, with thousands of films and projects up for sale. Cannes is both a summit for the cinema elite and a giant film bazaar.Three Worlds Colliding at La CroisetteFor 11 days in May, three different worlds lead parallel lives – critics, deal-makers and red-carpet royalty – colliding almost by accident on the seafront boulevard known as La Croisette. Hundreds of critics watch multiple films a day with monastic discipline. When they give in to parties, they bitterly regret it the next morning. You can spot some of us sleeping through entire screenings; how some colleagues manage to review films is a mystery. I remember a well-known French critic who had such vivid dreams in the darkness that he became convinced they were scenes in the films. His reviews were full of brilliant analysis of moments that did not exist.We critics rush between screenings, press conferences, interviews, our desks and the bunker's free espresso machines, often forgetting to eat or even pee. Downstairs, in the bunker's basement, and in hotel suites and rented apartments, the film market runs day and night: buyers juggle numbers, producers charm, directors and screenwriters fight for their vision. Above them floats Cannes' top layer – stars and "talent" spending hours in hair and makeup before climbing the 24 steps of the red carpet in borrowed couture and jewellery. When people in the industry groan, "oh God, it's Cannes again", it is this collision of financial anxiety, choreographed glamour and sheer exhaustion they are bracing themselves for.The Magic and Meaning Behind the GlamourThese worlds sometimes collide in the most poetic or grotesque ways. One morning, rushing to my first screening at 7.30am, I was walking along the Croisette when I saw, coming towards me, slightly dishevelled in a tuxedo, Jack Nicholson on his way back to his hotel after a long night. I smiled, he smiled back. He was alone, no bodyguards, no chaperones. Those were the days. I also shared a lift with Takeshi Kitano in full samurai attire, and I will never forget turning into a hotel corridor and finding myself nose to nose with Max von Sydow – Ingmar Bergman's medieval knight from The Seventh Seal. My cinephile heart skipped a beat.One of my favourite sidebars in Cannes, alongside the competition where you watch the year's best crop of films, is Cannes Classics, showing restored world masterpieces and documentaries about cinema. I always start the festival there: it is the best way to reset and begin afresh. Then I am ready for the 10-day onslaught of motion pictures, and for the magic moment that precedes each Cannes screening – the festival's own jingle, a palm ascending the red carpet from underwater and then into the sky, lifted by the ethereal arpeggios of Camille Saint-Saëns's Carnival of the Animals.Cannes: Enduring Symbol of Cinematic ResistanceIn 1955, Cannes gave its first official Palme d'Or to Delbert Mann's Marty; half a century later I found myself befriending its wonderful star, Betsy Blair, on the Croisette. I had the joy of seeing Ken Loach twice climbing those steps to collect the Palme, escorted by police outriders from Nice airport as if he were a head of state. I watched Iranian directors Jafar Panahi and Mohammad Rasoulof showing films at peril to their lives. For all the craziness of the red carpet and the samurai outfits, Cannes never forgets that it was founded as a gesture of resistance. That, as much as the glamour and the exhaustion, is why we keep going back.