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The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

The Lead: A Disappointing Return to FormHirokazu Kore-eda's latest film "Sheep in the Box" has premiered at the Cannes Film Festival to largely negative reviews, with critics describing it as a "bafflingly unsatisfying and unconvincing muddle of ideas and moods." The film, which explores the concept of AI humanoid robot children replacing deceased children, represents a significant departure for the acclaimed director, whose previous works have been celebrated for their emotional depth and nuanced storytelling.The Film: A Futuristic Tale of Grief and Technology"Sheep in the Box" follows Otone (Haruka Ayasi), an architect, and her husband Kensuke (Daigo Yamamoto), a carpenter, who are offered a promotional free offer by a company called REbirth: an ultra-hi-tech humanoid robot replica of their deceased seven-year-old son Kakeru. The robot is designed to have the physical form, speech patterns, and memories of the original child, based on videos, photos, and other research materials provided by the grieving parents.The film presents several intriguing concepts: the robot being taken to the scene of the hit-and-run that killed the original Kakeru in hopes of recovering details about the culprit; the robot serving as a confessor for Kensuke to admit his guilt about his son's death; and a subplot involving other abandoned robot children planning a "replicant revolt." However, these ideas remain largely undeveloped, leaving audiences with more questions than answers.Critical Reception: A Missed OpportunityThe review from The Guardian is particularly scathing, noting that the film "isn't as interesting as films on similar themes including Kogonada's After Yang and Benjamin Cleary's Swan Song." The critic specifically faults Kore-eda's "quietist, un-emphasised style" for being unsuitable to the material, suggesting that the director's typically subtle approach doesn't work with the ambitious sci-fi concepts presented.One of the primary criticisms is the film's tonal inconsistency, attempting to be both a sci-fi dystopia and a relatable story about parental grief, with these two elements ultimately undermining each other. The performances are also noted as problematic, with the robot child being "unpersuasively performed in a returning keynote of bland serenity," while the human parents react with bizarre matter-of-factness to what should be an emotionally charged situation.Impact on Kore-eda's Legacy and AI CinemaThis film represents a significant departure for Hirokazu Kore-eda, whose previous works like "Shoplifters" and "Like Father, Like Son" have been celebrated for their emotional authenticity and humanistic approach. The negative reception of "Sheep in the Box" raises questions about whether the director can successfully transition into more genre-oriented territory while maintaining his signature style.In the broader context of AI cinema, the film joins a growing conversation about artificial intelligence and humanity in film, alongside works like Spike Jonze's "Her" and Alex Garland's "Ex Machina." However, where those films have been praised for their thoughtful exploration of AI ethics and human connection, "Sheep in the Box" appears to have missed the mark, failing to deliver either compelling drama or meaningful commentary on its central themes.Future Outlook: A Setback in an Otherwise Distinguished CareerWhile "Sheep in the Box" may represent a misstep for Kore-eda, it's unlikely to significantly impact the director's otherwise distinguished career. The filmmaker has previously demonstrated remarkable range and depth, and this ambitious if flawed experiment may ultimately be viewed as an interesting if unsuccessful detour rather than a definitive statement on his abilities.For audiences interested in exploring AI and humanity in cinema, the film serves as a cautionary tale about the challenges of blending emotional storytelling with complex technological concepts. As the conversation around AI continues to evolve in both society and art, "Sheep in the Box" may be remembered more for what it attempted than for what it ultimately achieved.

The LeadRachel Reeves is preparing to announce a planning shake-up that would fast-track clean energy and infrastructure projects by curbing judicial reviews, the Treasury said.The Planning Reform DetailsThe chancellor will propose that parliament should be able to designate and approve the most important clean energy projects as of "critical national importance", as part of a wider package seeking to blunt the impact of the Iran crisis."That would reduce the exposure from judicial review on all but human rights grounds," the Treasury said.It comes as pressure grows on the government to accelerate its energy infrastructure development to meet its goal to build a virtually zero-carbon power system by 2030.The Renewable Energy LandscapeRenewable energy developers have long bemoaned the difficulty in gaining planning permission for projects, from offshore windfarms to onshore solar and battery storage developments, and waiting times to connect to Great Britain's electricity grid.A spokesperson for the Treasury said that vital infrastructure delivery had been "delayed by judicial reviews of projects the country needs."They added: "The chancellor won't stand for it any longer and is bringing forward bold changes to support delivery. She is clear that parliament must take back control – to get Britain building the power plants, windfarms and grid connections that will bring bills down, strengthen our energy security, and deliver growth in every part of our country."The Current State of Renewable Energy ApprovalsLast year a record number of renewable energy projects were given the go-ahead in Great Britain, according to analysis by the consultancy Cornwall Insight. It found that the energy capacity of new battery, wind, and solar projects that received approval climbed to 45GW, 96% higher than in 2024.However, it also found the pace of projects starting up lagged behind, largely as a result of long construction timelines and grid connection delays.The Broader Infrastructure ApproachFor other infrastructure, such as transport and water projects, the government will introduce a fixed legal challenge window. When this ends, planning consent could be updated to address "any legitimate issues", the Treasury said.The Political ContextThe proposal comes amid a series of policy moves by Reeves despite uncertainty around the future of Keir Starmer as prime minister.On Tuesday it emerged that the government asked UK supermarkets to consider freezing the prices of some essential foodstuffs to protect the public from inflation fuelled by the Middle East conflict.Reeves is expected to announce measures to help households with the cost of living on Thursday, on which she is also planning to cancel a planned rise in fuel duty.

The Film's Wartime ContextLife during wartime is the central theme of Andrei Zvyagintsev's latest film, 'Minotaur.' Set in provincial Russia, the movie presents a portrait of a nation paralyzed with disillusionment and fear, slowly coming to terms with, or retreating into collective denial about, the terrible mistake in Ukraine. The film draws inspiration from Claude Chabrol's 'La Femme Infidèle' (1969), Gogol's 'Dead Souls,' and the Greek myth of the Minotaur requiring 14 sacrifices.At its core, 'Minotaur' is a noir thriller of infidelity and vengeful murder, given new meaning by the context of deadly cynicism and political bad faith. It depicts a world in which powerful people, consumed by self-hate, have made covering up misdeeds their way of life.The Narrative of DisillusionmentThe story follows Gleb, a mini-oligarch businessman played by Dmitriy Mazurov, who lives in a town far from Moscow with his elegant but unhappy wife Galina (Iris Lebedeva) and their teen son. The setting is marked by the presence of the letter Z on car windshields and military trains, symbolizing support for the war effort.Gleb's marriage has been damaged by his past infidelities, and now he suspects his wife of cheating. However, more pressing matters emerge when local business leaders are summoned by the mayor (whose office displays a photo of Putin) and instructed to provide disposable male employees for the war effort.The Director's VisionZvyagintsev, who survived a severe bout of COVID-19 that caused 90% lung damage according to a related Guardian article, delivers a film with cold daylit compositions and scenes in grim streets and housing estates. Everything in the film looks like a crime scene, reflecting the moral decay at its center.The performances from Mazurov and Lebedeva are outstanding, particularly in the film's central extended silent sequence. Zvyagintsev masterfully portrays the chilling moral compromises made by characters who have normalized violence and deception as survival mechanisms in a corrupt system.Cultural and Political Commentary'Minotaur' functions as both personal drama and societal critique. When Gleb must provide 14 employees for the war, he calculates that he can advertise for 14 truck drivers with inflated salaries, knowing they'll be drafted before he ever has to pay them. This scheme represents the soul-blackening evil of a system that treats human lives as disposable commodities.The film also explores toxic masculinity through a scene where Gleb teaches his bullied son to threaten violence rather than seek help from authorities. This moment reveals the poisonous education in violence that perpetuates cycles of aggression and dehumanization.Festival Reception and SignificanceScreened at the prestigious Cannes film festival, 'Minotaur' continues Zvyagintsev's tradition of creating politically charged cinema that holds up a mirror to contemporary Russian society. The film's exploration of moral compromise in wartime positions it as a significant cultural document of Russia's current social and political climate.As Russia's war in Ukraine continues, 'Minotaur' serves as both artistic expression and implicit commentary on the psychological and moral costs of a nation at war with itself and its neighbors. The film's noir elements are amplified by the real-world context of deception, cover-ups, and the sacrifice of ordinary people for political agendas.

The LeadTwo Chinese oil tankers have exited the strategically vital Strait of Hormuz after waiting in the Gulf for more than two months, carrying approximately 4 million barrels of crude oil. This movement occurs as United States President Donald Trump and Vice President JD Vance publicly claim that a deal to end the US-Israel war on Iran is imminent, suggesting potential de-escalation in the region.The Strategic Movement of Chinese TankersShipping data from LSEG and Kpler confirmed that the Chinese-flagged Yuan Gui Yang and Hong Kong-flagged Ocean Lily have navigated out of the waterway. The Yuan Gui Yang loaded 2 million barrels of Iraqi Basrah crude on February 27, a day before the US-Israel war on Iran commenced, while the Ocean Lily loaded 1 million barrels each of Qatari al-Shaheen and Iraqi Basrah crude between late February and early March.South Korean Foreign Minister Cho Hyun also reported that a Korean crude vessel was passing through the Strait on Wednesday, indicating a potential return to normal shipping operations in the region.The Diplomatic Signals from WashingtonThe tankers' departure coincided with significant diplomatic pronouncements from US officials. President Trump told US lawmakers that the war on Iran will end "very quickly" and "hopefully … in a very nice manner." Vice President JD Vance further reinforced this message at a White House news briefing, stating that Tehran-Washington negotiations are "in a pretty good spot here.""There's a lot of back-and-forth, a lot of good progress is being made, but we're just going to keep on working at it," Vance said. These statements come after Trump had previously threatened military action against Iran, giving the country "two to three days" to make a deal and claiming he had been an hour away from ordering an attack before postponing it.The Oil Market ResponseThe positive comments from the White House led to a brief relaxation in oil prices, with Brent crude, the international benchmark, falling to as low as $110.16 a barrel. However, energy experts warn that prices are likely to remain elevated even if Washington and Tehran reach a deal."Prices are likely to still exhibit some upside potential even if a deal is concluded, given that supply will likely not return to pre-war levels immediately," Emril Jamil, a senior oil research analyst at LSEG, told Reuters.The economic and political fallout from the US blockade on the Strait of Hormuz has reverberated globally, with Brent crude hitting its highest price since June 2022 last month due to fears of prolonged supply disruption.Global Economic ImplicationsThe United Nations has cut global growth forecasts to 2.5 percent for this year, down from an estimated 3 percent last year, citing higher energy costs and weaker trade as key factors.In its latest World Economic Situation and Prospects Report, the UN warned that low-income families in developing countries bear the heaviest burden "as higher food and energy prices take up a larger share of their spending and rising costs outpace wages." The prolonged disruption of oil supplies through the Strait of Hormuz continues to have far-reaching consequences for the global economy.

Billy Joel Slams Unauthorized Biopic Over Life‑Rights DisputeBilly Joel publicly condemned the forthcoming film Billy & Me, describing the project as “legally and professionally misguided” after confirming that neither his life rights nor his music catalogue have been licensed to the producers.Legal and Creative Stakes Behind “Billy & Me”The film, announced on Tuesday, is intended to be told through the eyes of Joel’s first manager Irwin Mazur and will be directed by John Ottman, known for editing the Michael Jackson biopic Michael. However, the production does not hold:Joel’s life‑rights agreement, which protects against lawsuits.Licensing rights to any of Joel’s songs, a prerequisite for a music‑driven narrative.Joel’s representatives warned that the parties have been officially notified since 2021 that they lack these essential permissions.Financial Implications of Missing Music RightsSecuring rights to a major catalog like Joel’s typically involves:Up‑front licensing fees that can run into the low‑millions of dollars.Royalty splits on box‑office and streaming revenues.Potential penalties for unauthorized use, which can halt distribution.Without these agreements, the film faces significant budget overruns or the need to replace iconic songs with costly original compositions.Potential Ripple Effects on the Music‑Biopic LandscapeThis clash underscores a growing trend: artists demanding tighter control over how their stories and music are portrayed. Studios may now:Prioritize early negotiations for life‑rights before green‑lighting projects.Allocate larger portions of budgets to music licensing.Consider alternative storytelling approaches that avoid direct use of copyrighted songs.Failure to secure rights could set a precedent that discourages similar unauthorized biopics.What the Future Holds for the Joel Biopic ProjectIndustry observers anticipate three possible outcomes:Negotiations reopen, and the studio secures Joel’s approval and music rights, potentially reshaping the script.The project proceeds without Joel’s catalog, relying on original scores and limited references, which may dilute its commercial appeal.The film is shelved or re‑conceptualized, prompting producers to explore other phases of Joel’s career where rights are clearer.Until a resolution is reached, “Billy & Me” remains in limbo, serving as a cautionary tale for future music‑driven productions.

The Evolution of the Romantic Comedy ProtagonistIt's a long-running romcom trope that the couples we're supposed to root for are often hiding lies that threaten the chances of any happy relationship blossoming. From classics such as The Shop Around the Corner to modern blockbusters such as How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days, the genre thrives whenever it presents the audience with the most alarming red flags it conceals from its characters, raising the stakes by seeing if sparks can still fly when an ulterior motive behind each meet-cute is hidden in plain sight.The Sociopath Archetype in Contemporary RomcomsIn the romantic comedies we've seen so far this year, this trope has not only been revived but pushed far beyond its breaking point, cementing a new romcom archetype: the unlucky-in-love sociopath. This week's new release Finding Emily is the starkest example to date, introducing psychology student Emily (Angourie Rice), whose desperation to find a good case study for her dissertation essay on the self-destructive nature of love leads her to concoct a machiavellian scheme to paint university student Owen (Spike Fearn) as an obsessive stalker.Owen is a kind-hearted employee of her university's student union bar, only meeting Emily after his search to find a different Emily he danced with the previous night leads him in the wrong direction. After she sees him plant posters around the campus, Rice's Emily decides to help him as fuel for coursework she should have handed in already, faking his signature on consent forms, secretly recording their every conversation, and insisting he make grand public gestures that paint him in a bad light. With this being a romantic comedy, certain tropes must be adhered to and feelings gradually form between the two, but the initial lie has cast such a destructive shadow over Owen's life that it doesn't feel triumphant for the audience when he realises it was more than just a friend who betrayed him.Red Flags and Deception in Recent RomcomsLast month, audiences were treated to another romcom sociopath in Halle Bailey's Anna Montgomery, the heroine of the frothy You, Me & Tuscany. A house-sitter who lives vicariously through her clients and imagines their lives as her own, we're introduced to her getting fired after getting caught wearing clothes that don't belong to her – which yes, does include underwear. After a one-night stand with a handsome Italian man, she saves photos of his glamorous Tuscan villa and flies to Europe to squat there, justifying her presence to his family by pretending she is his new fiancee. It's red flag after red flag in a haphazard scheme to maintain a life of luxury on someone else's dime, and the fact she successfully wins over another new interest during this ruse is less shocking than the Italian family forgiving her because they found her that charming.This trope of a relationship built on a lie was very deliberately weaponised in Kristoffer Borgli's hit black comedy The Drama, which juxtaposes one mundane white lie – Charlie (Robert Pattinson) pretending to have read a book he sees Emma (Zendaya) reading so he could talk to her – with her choice to conceal from him the worst thing she's ever done. The genius of The Drama isn't just that Emma is far less of a sociopath than many of those judging her for her teenage planning of a crime she didn't go through with, but that it exposes why modern romantic comedies are making their love interests far more extreme. These are characters who likely would have swiped left on each other if they didn't meet in the real world due to lack of immediate shared interests, with Charlie's planned wedding speech notably lacking any specificity about his wife-to-be.The Digital Dating Disconnect in Modern RomanceThe concept of a real-life meet-cute is growing increasingly alien in a world where more relationships are beginning online, and many reports point towards gen Z opting out of the dating market altogether. The revival of romcoms aimed at millennial and gen-Z audiences coincides with a need to reflect this sea change in how young people approach relationships, which is why we're starting to see an influx of stories that feel more like cautionary tales than traditional examples of the genre. We're still a world away from a horror movie subversion of the meet-cute such as the thriller Fresh, where Daisy Edgar-Jones unwittingly locked eyes with cannibal Sebastian Stan in a grocery store, but film-makers in both genres seem keenly aware that the digital world provides barriers to dating nightmares like these. Neither can function as well if you get to know somebody first and block them before any carnage can ensue.There are, of course, plenty of horror stories about online dating to be told; there's a cottage industry of true crime documentaries such as The Tinder Swindler which revel in the horrors that could be inflicted upon you if you swipe right. The modern romcom remains stubbornly offline in comparison, largely because the love interests it presents wouldn't be reflected well in a dating app bio. In a world where the most viral social posts about dating are from young people outlining their specific "icks" in potential partners, most of this new crop of romcom couples wouldn't sustain a Bumble conversation if they had a better handle on each other's personalities.The Future of Romantic StorytellingWith younger people remaining cynical about love and romcoms struggling to justify classic tropes in an online-driven dating world, these won't be the last films in a wave that feels more harrowing than idealistic. As our dating lives become increasingly filtered through digital interfaces, the romantic comedy genre may need to evolve further to maintain relevance, potentially exploring how relationships can form authentically in a world where first impressions are increasingly curated and deception is just a swipe away.

The Historic Win Taiwan Travelogue, a novel written by Yáng Shuāng-zǐ and translated by Lin King, has become the first book originally written in Mandarin Chinese to win the International Booker prize. The Novel's Background The novel is presented as a translation of a rediscovered memoir, written from the perspective of a novelist who sails to Japan-occupied Taiwan in 1938 and embarks on a culinary tour in the company of an interpreter, with whom she falls in love. The Award Ceremony Yáng and King were announced as the winners of the £50,000 prize – to be split equally between them – during a ceremony at Tate Modern, London, on Tuesday evening. The Impact of the Win This win marks the second year in a row that the Sheffield-based independent press And Other Stories has taken home the prize, following Heart Lamp by Banu Mushtaq, translated by Deepa Bhasthi, last year. The Future of Literary Translations The International Booker prize recognises the best fiction translated into English. This win highlights the growing importance of literary translations and the increasing recognition of works from diverse languages and cultures.

The Birth of Wales’ First Menopausal Punk CollectiveWhen a community‑outreach worker named Jude Price launched the “Nana Punk” workshops at the Cab in Newport, a group of older women answered the call and formed the NaNaz. Formed last year, the six‑piece band blends classic punk energy with topics that most mainstream acts avoid: unaffordable care‑home fees, male attitudes toward older women, recycling frustrations and the everyday reality of menopause.Age, Experience and the Numbers Behind the NaNazMembers: six women, ages ranging from 50 to 62.First single: “60 Lies,” supporting the WASPI pension‑inequality campaign.Media reach: featured on the homepage of guitar.com and in an Age Cymru poster campaign.Venue pedigree: regular gigs at the Cab, a venue that also hosts acts like Murderburgers and Pizzatramp.Why Older Women’s Punk Matters for Culture and PolicyThe NaNaz challenge two entrenched narratives: that punk is a young‑man’s genre and that older women are invisible in public debate. By singing about pensions and menopause, they give a voice to issues that affect a growing demographic in the UK, potentially influencing public opinion and policy discussions around age‑related social security reforms.Future of Age‑Inclusive Punk and Its Potential Ripple EffectsWith growing media attention and a grassroots fan base, the NaNaz could inspire similar projects across the UK, encouraging community centres to host “senior‑punk” workshops. Their success may also prompt cultural institutions to book more age‑diverse line‑ups, reshaping the live‑music landscape to be more inclusive of older performers.