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The Dark Side of the Plate: What It's Like to Be a Dictator's Personal Chef Kim Jong-il loved pepperoni pizza. Saddam Hussein couldn’t resist a fish barbecue. Idi Amin reportedly had the capacity for an entire roasted goat. The menus may have differed, but the appetite was the same. For history’s most notorious strongmen, the dining table doubled as a stage for power. For the cooks who served them, every meal came with extraordinary stakes. The Lives of Dictators' Chefs In his latest film, How to Feed a Dictator, which premieres at the Tribeca film festival, five private chefs recount their intimate experiences serving some of the world’s most feared dictators and the ever-present dangers that came with the job. Based on the 2020 book by the Polish journalist Witold Szabłowski, the 95-minute documentary probes the fraught terrain between morality and survival, asking viewers to consider the choices these chefs made – and the choices they never really had. The Moral Complexity Much like the menu on offer, the perspectives vary wildly. We meet Keo Samoun at the unkempt gravesite of her former boss, the Cambodian dictator Pol Pot, laying out a spread of fish, fruit and rice for a man she still regards almost as a god. Famed pizzaiolo Ermanno Furlanis, by contrast, recalls the terror of making pies for Kim Jong-il – his life under surveillance, his passport under guard, the state apparatchik who barged into his kitchen to ensure the olives on one pizza were spaced just so. The Price of Loyalty No chef is as tormented by their service as Ugandan Charles Otonde Odera. He describes his early days working for Ugandan despot Idi Amin as life-changing – a poor villager scraping by one day, and the next driving a Mercedes, supporting eight wives, and living in extraordinary comfort as Amin terrorized and brutalized the local masses. For all the chefs, comfort was the trade. By most measures, theirs was a great gig – logic that can excuse almost anything. The Future of Accountability The dissonance appears to bring Samoun to a breaking point. “Even though he made mistakes, it couldn’t all be bad,” she says, weeping. The film implicitly makes clear that the thought of playing the hero and poisoning a dictator never occurs to these chefs. Entry into a dictator’s inner circle requires a level of deep trust that also ensures distance from those on the outside.

The Great British Restaurant ExodusAt the end of April 2026, chef Richard Wilkins made the painful decision to close his west London Michelin-listed Restaurant 104 after seven years. His signature dishes—soft Scottish langoustines wrapped in crispy pastry, turbot in spinach and champagne sauce, and buttery wagyu steak with English peas—would no longer be available to diners. Wilkins, who previously worked with Gordon Ramsay at Pétrus, represents a growing trend in Britain's hospitality industry: the closure of once-thriving establishments."The financial pressures became brutal," Wilkins explained. "We were very small, with only 12 covers. So when things like business rates or VAT rates change, it's the smallest people who are hit the hardest." Despite investing in a five-figure refurbishment and increasing marketing efforts, Wilkins found that "looking at the bookings coming in, compared to the rising costs, it just didn't add up any more. And I was so fatigued."The Scale of the CrisisWilkins' restaurant is just one of many casualties in what appears to be a systemic collapse of Britain's restaurant industry. According to recent data, three hospitality sites are closing every day in the UK in the first quarter of 2026. At the high end of the market, London has lost 24 of its 112 Michelin-starred restaurants since 2021, while more than 20% of Michelin-starred restaurants in England and Wales (52 out of 240) have closed since the pandemic.This decline stands in stark contrast to the decades-long gastro boom that preceded it. In 2011, legendary French chef Joël Robuchon hailed London as "the foodie capital of the world," declaring that "when it comes to what's new in cooking, to innovative cuisine, it's all happening in London... The epicentre is not Paris but London." Even outside London, regions like Cumbria gained international recognition for their culinary excellence, with industry experts comparing the Lake District to Tokyo, Paris, and San Sebastián as a foodie destination.The Economic Squeeze on RestaurantsThe restaurant industry is facing a perfect storm of economic pressures that have made businesses unsustainable. Kate Nicholls, chair of the trade body UK Hospitality, explains: "Even busy, successful businesses have been pushed to the margins as a result of the last two budgets. From our own research, we have seen menu prices going up by 6%, but the cost of doing business has gone up by between 8% and 12%. So that's not being passed on to diners. People are spending less than they used to, and probably going out to eat less frequently."The specific financial pressures include:VAT returning to 20% in April 2022 after temporary reductions during the pandemicThe complete abolition of the 40% discount on business rates for restaurants in April 2026Food inflationNational insurance increasesMinimum wage increasesUtility bill increasesEven established restaurateurs like Tom Kerridge, who owns five fine dining pubs and restaurants including the Hand and Flowers (the first gastropub to receive two Michelin stars), are struggling. "Our guest numbers are down by 15-20% and for those that do come, their spend is down by about the same percentage," Kerridge states. "Currently, we are operating at 100% cost and in one case we're at 115%, so it's a loss."The Transformation of Britain's Culinary LandscapeThe closures are not just affecting individual businesses but threatening to transform Britain's entire culinary identity. Kerridge warns: "Over the last 20 to 30 years, we have seen the British food scene go from being processed food from the microwave and deep-fat fryer into being one of the most creative and exciting food destinations in the word. But when everyone is forced to cut costs, standards will go down. Ultraprocessed foods will start dropping into the menu, corners will be cut and the skill set in kitchens will disappear because we can't afford to employ the staff."The industry's decline also threatens to reverse the economic gains made during the gastro boom period. Restaurants have never been easy to run, with profit margins even in boom times typically only around 10%. With multiple cost factors each potentially taking away 2.5% of profit, many establishments are now operating at zero or negative margins.The Path Forward for Britain's RestaurantsIndustry experts are calling for government intervention to prevent further closures. Kerridge points out that "they know exactly what to do because they just did it to make family days out more affordable this summer, including reducing VAT on kids' meals." He suggests that reducing VAT, which averages 10% for restaurants across Europe, could make a significant difference: "Cutting VAT doesn't just help businesses, it makes it possible for operators to pass on savings to guests. And it's the difference between 21 businesses closing a week or staying open."UK Hospitality has been lobbying for such measures, though Nicholls is skeptical about the recent government package on children's meals. "I don't think it will make much difference to the bottom line unless it can somehow drive greater demand for eating out overall. But maybe having conceded the principle that reducing VAT is the best way of delivering a boost, the chancellor might be inspired to offer something bolder and more ambitious for all restaurants in the future."For Wilkins, the immediate future involves finding employment in someone else's kitchen. "I have the site until the end of June and we're offering private dining and collabs with guest chefs. It's strange to still have it – like having a family member who is on life support." His sentiment reflects the broader uncertainty facing Britain's once-thriving restaurant industry as it navigates unprecedented economic challenges.

Chefs Rally Behind Andy Burnham’s VAT Cut ProposalProminent chefs—including Tom Kerridge, Thomasina Miers, and Tommy Banks—have voiced strong support for Manchester mayor Andy Burnham after he pledged to reduce the value‑added tax on pubs, restaurants, hotels and bars from 20% to 10%. The endorsement comes as Burnham prepares to contest the Makerfield by‑election and signals a potential leadership challenge to Keir Starmer if he wins.Potential Fiscal Impact of Reducing Hospitality VAT to 10%Current UK hospitality VAT: 20%Proposed rate: 10%, matching France, Spain and Italy; Germany already sits at 7%.Industry data cited by chefs: 21 venues close each week due to combined pressures from business rates, NI, minimum‑wage hikes, energy costs and food inflation.Assuming the sector’s annual turnover of roughly £30 billion, a 10‑percentage‑point cut could translate into up to £3 billion of tax relief, potentially preserving thousands of jobs.What a VAT Cut Means for UK Hospitality and the Political LandscapeThe hospitality lobby frames the tax reduction as the single most effective lever to stave off closures and protect employment. By aligning the UK rate with continental norms, Burnham positions himself as a champion of a “creative economy” that resonates with urban voters, especially in Manchester’s vibrant food scene. The move also forces the Labour leadership to confront criticism that it is “out of touch” with small‑business realities.Future Scenarios for VAT Reform and Burnham’s Political ProspectsIf Burnham secures a parliamentary seat and later the premiership, a swift legislative amendment could see the 10% rate implemented within 12‑18 months, catalysing a rebound in hospitality openings. Conversely, resistance from Treasury officials—particularly Rachel Reeves—could stall the proposal, turning it into a rallying point for opposition parties and industry groups. The upcoming by‑election will therefore serve as a litmus test for how far the VAT debate can shape the broader contest for Labour’s future direction.

The LeadTelevision viewers are in for a diverse lineup tonight, with Emilia Clarke taking center stage in a cold war spy drama, culinary competition reaching its finale, and international football action. The evening offers something for every taste, from reality dating shows to historical documentaries and supernatural westerns.Emilia Clarke's Cold War Spy Drama9pm, Sky AtlanticEmilia Clarke learned Russian for this exciting cold war comedy drama and continues to flex her impressive skills as US spy Bea. She prepares to go on a date with a KGB agent to strengthen her cover, and gets some tips from Twila. Meanwhile, Twila is also taking secret calls to investigate a number of sex worker murders.Culinary Competition at Its Peak8pm, BBC OneAfter an intense Chef's Table stage at Opheem in Birmingham, where the finalists prepared sand carrot in eight different ways for Michelin-starred chefs, the remaining trio now face their toughest challenge. They must create their best three-course menus in just three hours for the judges.Garden Inspiration for Viewers8pm, BBC TwoThe roses are peaking at Longmeadow, giving Monty Don the chance to celebrate England's favourite flower in all its various guises. There are tips for viewers whose blooms aren't quite in bloom, while Brighton's city garden shows what can be achieved in cramped urban spaces, and a Bedfordshire plot full of succulents demonstrates tropical gardening possibilities.Summer Travel Concerns8pm, Channel 4With headlines suggesting that the Iran war is sending jet fuel prices soaring and causing flight cancellations, Kate Quilton investigates whether there's more chance of getting stuck abroad this summer or if airlines might actually start offering super bargains to compete.National Trust's Hidden Treasures9pm, BBC TwoAnother trip behind the velvet ropes to witness the restoration efforts of National Trust staff. At Snowshill Manor in the Cotswolds, a child's suit of lacquered samurai armour requires some serious TLC, while at Calke Abbey in Derbyshire a variety of historic stuffed birds need their feathers unruffled.Love Stories Across Generations10pm, Channel 4Love can strike at any age, as this week's visit to Cupid's restaurant proves. On one table, 62-year-old hairdresser Liz has a promising night with builder Paul. Over on another table, 19-year-olds Rue and Kaitlyn are only just dipping their toes into the world of dating.Film Highlights for TonightDead Man's Wire (Gus Van Sant, 2025), 8am, 8pm, Sky Cinema PremiereThe spirit of the Al Pacino classic Dog Day Afternoon is alive and well in Gus Van Sant's drama. Bill Skarsgård is all gangly, edgy energy as Tony Kiritsis, a low-level Indianapolis land developer who takes ML Hall's son hostage using a contraption connected to a shotgun.Devil in the Dust (Ned Crowley, 2025), Paramount+This western is knocked off-kilter almost immediately when a cute little blond girl kills a horse by touching it. The supernatural frisson never really goes away as we follow Guy Pearce's grizzled, ether-addicted doctor Bender on a quest to a preacher who can supposedly take out the devil in the girl.Live Sports ActionWomen's World Cup Football, Spain v England, 7.30pm, ITV1A qualifier in Palma, Mallorca brings together these two footballing nations in an important match that could impact their standings in the tournament.

The Rise of 'Fricy': A New Summer PalateThe culinary landscape is heating up this summer with the emergence of fricy—a portmanteau of fruity and spicy. Driven by social media virality and a growing consumer demand for complex flavor profiles, the combination of sweet fruits and fiery chillis is transitioning from a niche cultural staple to a mainstream sensation.From Mexican Chamoyadas to London Cafe MenusThe trend is deeply rooted in Latin American and Southeast Asian cuisines, where the balance of sweet, sour, and spicy has long been mastered. Establishments like Mango Twist in London are capitalizing on this, serving traditional Mexican chamoyadas—mango and chilli slushies—to eager crowds. The visual appeal of these brightly colored, sauce-drenched treats on platforms like TikTok and Instagram is accelerating their adoption among younger demographics.The Financial Heatwave in Condiment SalesThis shift in consumer taste is translating directly into robust retail sales. Key data points highlight the economic impact of the fricy trend:Sous Chef: Sales of the Mexican lime and chilli spice blend Tajín are up 19% year-on-year in 2026.Waitrose: The supermarket reported a 30% increase in sales of its Mango Amba Sauce over the last year.Hot-Headz!: The hot sauce retailer has seen a massive surge in tropical hot sauces, specifically those featuring pineapple and mango.The Culinary Shift Toward Complex Flavor ProfilesChefs across the UK are noting a broader openness to these flavor combinations. While incorporating fruit into savory dishes is historically common in Thai and Vietnamese cuisines, Western diners are now actively seeking out these contrasting tastes. High-end and casual dining spots alike are experimenting with spicy Peruvian aji verde sauces on tomato toast or chilli-infused raspberry margaritas, moving away from purely sweet desserts toward more interesting, savory-leaning fruit dishes.The Future of Sweet and Spicy GastronomyWhile the term fricy may elicit eye-rolls from culinary purists, its utility as a marketing tool is undeniable. As consumers continue to seek out visually striking, multi-dimensional flavor experiences, the intersection of fruit and heat will likely expand beyond summer treats into year-round menu staples. The food industry should expect continued growth in global hot sauces and fruit-based condiments as this palate evolution continues.

Lead: Tonight’s Prime‑Time TV HighlightsThe Guardian’s TV guide for 26 May 2026 showcases a blend of historical documentary, reality competition and drama across the UK’s major broadcasters. From Tom Hanks’s new World War II series on Sky History to beloved formats like Bake Off: The Professionals and Soccer Aid, viewers have a diverse slate at 8‑9 pm.World War II With Tom Hanks – A Personal Historical Narrative9pm, Sky History – Tom Hanks executive‑produces, introduces and narrates a six‑part series that traces the conflict from Hitler’s rise to the invasion of Poland. The series promises expert analysis combined with Hanks’s storytelling pedigree from “Band of Brothers” and “Masters of the Air”.Reality‑Driven Competition Slots on Channel 4 and ITV18pm, Channel 4 – Bake Off: The Professionals returns with a secret‑challenge format that forces pastry chefs to reinvent a classic Paris‑Brest without a recipe. 9pm, ITV1 – Soccer Aid blends sport and charity, featuring celebrities such as Olivia Colman, Robbie Williams and Mo Farah in a televised kick‑about.Drama and Genealogy Offerings on BBC One and Channel 49pm, BBC One – Who Do You Think You Are? follows presenter Zoe Ball as she uncovers her family’s Viking and pirate myths, tracing roots from Glasgow to Cornwall. 9pm, Channel 4 – Falling continues Jack Thorne’s slow‑burning romance about a nun and a priest navigating life beyond the convent.Emerging Platforms Highlight Niche Entertainment9pm, U&Dave – The Way Out pits comedy teams in an escape‑room‑style competition, showcasing the channel’s focus on quirky, interactive formats.Impact: A Schedule That Balances History, Competition and Personal StorytellingThe line‑up reflects broadcasters’ strategy to capture audiences seeking both educational content and light‑hearted competition. Historical documentaries like Hanks’s attract viewers interested in depth, while reality formats sustain high‑engagement ratings in the 8‑9 pm window.Looking Ahead: Continued Emphasis on Hybrid FormatsGiven the strong performance of mixed‑genre programming, we can expect more collaborations between high‑profile talent and specialist channels, as well as an expansion of interactive formats on emerging services such as U&Dave.

The End of an Era for Sustainable GastronomyMichelin has abruptly retired its green star award, which recognized restaurants for demonstrating exceptional commitment to sustainability practices and eco-friendly cooking. The decision has left UK chefs who received the accolade feeling betrayed and questioning the timing and reasoning behind the move.The Green Star's Brief History and SignificanceIn 2020, Michelin introduced the green star as a way to acknowledge restaurants that prioritized eco-friendly ingredients, reduced waste, and demonstrated environmental responsibility. Winners received a green plaque to display and were able to feature the star on their websites, similar to the traditional Michelin stars.The award quickly became a prestigious recognition in the culinary world, with 37 restaurants across the UK and beyond earning the distinction. For many establishments, it represented not just an environmental commitment but also a significant marketing advantage that helped them stand out in a competitive industry.Economic and Professional Impact on Award-Winning RestaurantsThe loss of the green star represents more than just a symbolic change for affected restaurants. For many, it means losing a key differentiator in an increasingly crowded fine-dining market. The award provided international recognition, facilitated collaborations with other chefs, and attracted customers specifically interested in sustainable dining experiences.Restaurants like Pythouse Kitchen Garden in Wiltshire, Culture in Falmouth, and Homestead Kitchen Garden in North Yorkshire reported that the green star brought them customers who shared their environmental values. The award was particularly valuable for smaller, independent establishments that built their brand around sustainability.Industry Reactions and Broader ContextThe decision has been met with widespread disappointment from the culinary community. Piers Milburn of Pythouse Kitchen Garden expressed feeling "let down" by Michelin, noting that the company had built a platform for businesses to thrive from the accolade before abruptly removing it. Hylton Espey of Culture restaurant criticized the lack of communication, stating they learned about the changes only after the press release was issued.The retirement of the green star comes amid a broader trend of corporations reducing sustainability initiatives globally. Some chefs have expressed concern that this may reflect a wider retreat from environmental commitments, particularly in light of political shifts in certain regions.The Future of Sustainable Recognition in GastronomyIn place of the green star, Michelin has introduced "Mindful Voices," described as a "global editorial platform" about sustainable restaurants and people "pioneering new approaches in the fields of gastronomy, hospitality and wine." However, this platform will not bestow any official accolade, leading many to view it as an inadequate replacement.Some industry observers suggest the retirement may be due to branding confusion, as the green star visually resembled the traditional Michelin star, leading some customers to mistakenly believe recipients had received a full Michelin star. Despite this explanation, many chefs remain unconvinced and feel the decision undermines years of work toward more sustainable practices in the restaurant industry.

The Lead: Barcelona's Tourism ReversalAfter decades of aggressively promoting itself as a premier Mediterranean destination, Barcelona has made a dramatic shift in its tourism policy. The city has appointed José Antonio Donaire as its first commissioner for sustainable tourism, declaring that Barcelona has reached its maximum capacity for visitors and needs to manage the tourists it already has rather than attract more.The Event Details: New Policies and AppointmentsThe appointment of Donaire represents a significant change in Barcelona's approach to tourism, moving away from viewing it as an unalloyed good to recognizing its negative impacts on the city's identity and residents' quality of life. Donaire, a professor at the University of Girona and former director of its tourism research institute, has outlined several key initiatives:Transforming La Boquería market from a tourist attraction back to a market serving fresh food to locals, with plans to ban takeaway snacksRevoking licenses for 10,000 legal tourist apartments in 2028 to alleviate the housing crisisReducing cruise ship berths from seven to five, while still receiving approximately three million cruise passengers annuallyIncreasing parking fees and redirecting tourist coaches to peripheral areas to reduce day tripper numbersThe Data Analysis: Tourism Statistics and ImpactBarcelona and its surrounding provinces attracted 26 million visitors last year, a 2.4% increase from the previous year. About 65% of these visitors are classified as "leisure tourists," with the remaining being either conference attendees or "cultural visitors." The city's housing stock currently grows by approximately 2,000 homes per year, and officials hope that converting tourist apartments back to residential use could provide the equivalent of five years' housing growth.The Impact Analysis: Changing Barcelona's Identity and EconomyThe new policies mark a significant reversal for Barcelona, which has long marketed itself aggressively to tourists. The changes come in response to growing resident complaints about overtourism, which has driven up housing costs, crowded public spaces, and eroded the city's Catalan identity. The transformation of La Boquería market symbolizes this shift, as it has become emblematic of the worst impacts of mass tourism—once a haven for chefs and foodies, it has become a no-go area for most Barcelona residents.The Prediction: Future Outlook for Barcelona's TourismWhile Donaire expresses confidence in the new approach, challenges remain. Other stakeholders such as the port, airport, airlines, hoteliers, and the broader travel industry may not align with the city's new direction. Additionally, the impact of these changes may take time to materialize. However, if successful, Barcelona could become a model for other overtourism-plagued cities, demonstrating how to balance economic benefits with preserving local identity and quality of life. The city aims to achieve an equal three-way split between leisure tourists, cultural visitors, and business travelers within the coming years.

The upcoming clash between Chelsea and Manchester City at Wembley will see the fifth‑generation FA Cup trophy lifted for the 13th time, a reminder that the silverware’s allure transcends the modern game’s evolving aesthetics.The FA Cup Trophy’s 13th Final Appearance Marks a Century‑Old LegacyFirst contested in 1871, the FA Cup has become the world’s oldest football competition. The current trophy, crafted in 2014 by silversmiths Thomas Lyte, is the fifth version to grace the podium. Its history includes dramatic incidents – a drop from a Chelsea team bus, a fall off a plinth in Portsmouth – each episode mirroring football’s exponential growth and the trophy’s journey from cabinet‑bound relic to travelling ambassador.Weight, Materials and the Modern Design of the 2014 Silver TrophyMaterial: solid silver, thicker gauge than previous versionsWeight: 6.3 kg, noticeably heavier than earlier modelsDesign goal: durability for frequent travel and handlingWhile the trophy’s increased mass adds to its physical presence, restoration work such as hammering and polishing can thin the metal over time, making careful stewardship essential.Why the FA Cup Remains a Symbol of Football’s Cultural IdentityThe cup’s mystique stems from its deep‑rooted heritage, contrasting with the sleek, corporate aesthetics of the Premier League and Champions League trophies. Superstitions surrounding untouched trophies – from pop stars like Rihanna to internet chefs like Salt Bae – reinforce its sacred status. Comparable reverence is seen in other sports, such as the Stanley Cup’s taboo against premature handling, highlighting a broader cultural pattern where trophies become talismans of achievement.What the Future Holds for England’s Most Iconic SilverwareAs football continues to globalise and commercialise, the FA Cup’s enduring appeal suggests it will retain its ceremonial weight. Ongoing preservation efforts, combined with the trophy’s robust 2014 construction, aim to safeguard it for future generations, ensuring that only a select few will ever lift the silver emblem of English football glory.