The Dark Side of the Plate: What It's Like to Be a Dictator's Personal Chef

Kim Jong-il loved pepperoni pizza. Saddam Hussein couldn’t resist a fish barbecue. Idi Amin reportedly had the capacity for an entire roasted goat. The menus may have differed, but the appetite was the same. For history’s most notorious strongmen, the dining table doubled as a stage for power. For the cooks who served them, every meal came with extraordinary stakes.

The Lives of Dictators' Chefs

In his latest film, How to Feed a Dictator, which premieres at the Tribeca film festival, five private chefs recount their intimate experiences serving some of the world’s most feared dictators and the ever-present dangers that came with the job. Based on the 2020 book by the Polish journalist Witold Szabłowski, the 95-minute documentary probes the fraught terrain between morality and survival, asking viewers to consider the choices these chefs made – and the choices they never really had.

The Moral Complexity

Much like the menu on offer, the perspectives vary wildly. We meet Keo Samoun at the unkempt gravesite of her former boss, the Cambodian dictator Pol Pot, laying out a spread of fish, fruit and rice for a man she still regards almost as a god. Famed pizzaiolo Ermanno Furlanis, by contrast, recalls the terror of making pies for Kim Jong-il – his life under surveillance, his passport under guard, the state apparatchik who barged into his kitchen to ensure the olives on one pizza were spaced just so.

The Price of Loyalty

No chef is as tormented by their service as Ugandan Charles Otonde Odera. He describes his early days working for Ugandan despot Idi Amin as life-changing – a poor villager scraping by one day, and the next driving a Mercedes, supporting eight wives, and living in extraordinary comfort as Amin terrorized and brutalized the local masses. For all the chefs, comfort was the trade. By most measures, theirs was a great gig – logic that can excuse almost anything.

The Future of Accountability

The dissonance appears to bring Samoun to a breaking point. “Even though he made mistakes, it couldn’t all be bad,” she says, weeping. The film implicitly makes clear that the thought of playing the hero and poisoning a dictator never occurs to these chefs. Entry into a dictator’s inner circle requires a level of deep trust that also ensures distance from those on the outside.