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The Leadership Transition at LA PhilThe Los Angeles Philharmonic has officially announced Daniel Harding as its next music director, marking a significant transition in leadership for one of America's premier orchestras. The UK-born conductor, 50, will begin his tenure in the 2027/28 season with an initial six-year contract, succeeding Gustavo Dudamel who has led the orchestra since 2009.Dudamel will depart in August 2026 to become music and artistic director of the New York Philharmonic but will maintain close connections with the Los Angeles organization as its artistic and cultural laureate. This transition represents the end of an era for the LA Phil, which has flourished under Dudamel's leadership while also preparing for a new artistic direction.The New Musical VisionIn his new role, Harding will oversee programming across the entire organization, including presentations at the Walt Disney Concert Hall, the Hollywood Bowl, and the Ford. His conducting schedule will begin with eight weeks in his first season, increasing to twelve weeks in subsequent years. This comprehensive responsibility reflects the central role of the music director in shaping the artistic identity of the institution.Harding brings a distinct musical perspective to the position, with the orchestra's president and CEO Kim Noltemy highlighting his "intellectual curiosity, passion for bringing in and engaging with new audiences, global perspective, and talent for nurturing emerging voices." These qualities are expected to align with and potentially expand the LA Phil's mission in the coming years.A Legacy of Musical ExcellenceThe Los Angeles Philharmonic, founded in 1979, has established itself as one of the world's leading orchestras, known for both its traditional classical programming and innovative contemporary commissions. The orchestra has premiered works by composers ranging from Stravinsky and Schoenberg to Lutosławski and John Adams, cementing its reputation for musical adventurousness.Under Dudamel's 14-year tenure, the organization has achieved significant recognition, winning 11 Grammy awards for recordings. The orchestra's multiple performance venues—including the iconic Walt Disney Concert Hall designed by Frank Gehry—have made it a cultural cornerstone of Los Angeles, attracting diverse audiences from across the city and beyond.Harding's Distinguished CareerBorn in Oxford in 1975, Harding has developed an extraordinary conducting career that began remarkably early. As a teenager, he came to the attention of Simon Rattle, who hired him as an assistant at the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra. At just 21, he joined the Berlin Philharmonic as Claudio Abbado's assistant and became the youngest conductor in Proms history.His subsequent career includes 19 years with the Swedish Radio Symphony Orchestra and more than two decades with the Mahler Chamber Orchestra, which he helped found. Harding has maintained long-established relationships with major orchestras worldwide, including the Berlin Philharmonic, Amsterdam's Concertgebouw, and the Vienna Philharmonic. As an opera conductor, he has led critically acclaimed productions at Milan's Teatro alla Scala, Vienna State Opera, London's Royal Opera House, and at the prestigious festivals in Aix-en-Provence and Salzburg.A Unique Dual CareerWhat distinguishes Harding from most of his contemporaries is his parallel career as a qualified airline pilot. For the past few years, he has been piloting Airbuses for Air France while maintaining his conducting schedule. Harding has described this dual life as enriching, noting that "it's OK to take risks in concerts, because there it's safe to do so" and that "knowing another world, how other people work and having a completely different role is healthy."This unique perspective has informed his approach to music-making, with Harding stating that he "learned things about myself and conducting in a year that I didn't learn in 29 years before as a conductor." His first connection to the LA Phil came in 1997 when he conducted the orchestra at the Ojai music festival.The Transition PeriodIn the transition leading up to his official appointment, Harding will serve as music director designate, conducting the LA Phil in November 2026 and January 2027. These programs will feature wide-ranging repertoire including Brahms, Bernstein's Jeremiah symphony, Strauss's Also Sprach Zarathustra, and works by contemporary composers Thomas Adès and Betsy Jolas.The search process for a new music director was extensive, led by a committee including musicians, board members, and staff. John Lofton, bass trombone of the Los Angeles Philharmonic and search committee member, praised Harding's "exceptional level of focus and musical insight," noting that musicians value "his clarity, his respect for the orchestra and the way he invites us into the music."The Future of the LA PhilThe transition represents both an ending and a beginning for the LA Phil. As outgoing director Gustavo Dudamel expressed confidence that "the brilliance, heart and limitless talent of the LA Phil...will be in good hands under Daniel's musical leadership," the organization looks toward a new chapter.Esa-Pekka Salonen, the orchestra's creative director and former music director (1992-2009), expressed his hope that "the beauty, optimism and openness of Los Angeles proves as transformative for [Harding] as it has been for me." As Harding prepares to take the helm, the LA Phil enters a period of artistic evolution that will build upon its storied past while exploring new musical territories under his leadership.

The Unparalleled Experience of CannesNothing prepares you for the shock that is the Cannes film festival: the adrenaline, the fatigue, the elation and the emotion, but also the hunger, the anger, the magic and the ridicule. For young cinephiles, and for almost everybody who works in the film industry, it is the mecca of cinema and has been so for nearly eight decades. Anyone going for the first time this week, as I did 25 years ago, should not listen to the old grognards – Cannes' battle-worn veterans – who will lament that the festival has become an abominable circus and swear this year will be their last. It is a circus, and you can bet they will be back for as long as their knees can take it. For there is nothing quite like it.From Resistance to Global Cinema HubBorn to counteract Benito Mussolini's Venice film festival, its first edition was planned for September 1939, but Adolf Hitler had other plans. The previous year, under pressure from Berlin and Rome, the Venice film festival's top prize, the Coppa Mussolini, was handed to Leni Riefenstahl's propaganda film Olympia, prompting the French, British and American delegates to walk out. Hence Cannes, conceived as the festival of the "free world". More than 80 years later, for all its sins, it has remained faithful to that founding promise.The Expansive Scale of Modern CannesOver the decades, Cannes has mutated into an ever-hungrier mammoth, needing more space, and more venues, as it attracts an increasing number of journalists and professionals. A purpose-built Palais des Festivals had to be erected in the 1980s. "The bunker", as we have come to call it, is not exactly beautiful but brutally efficient at managing Cannes' mind-boggling crowds. This year, about 40,000 accredited festival-goers are descending on the French Riviera from 140 different countries, with dozens of films selected across all sidebars. At the same time, the Marché du Film, running alongside the festival since the late 1960s, is gathering about 16,000 participants, with thousands of films and projects up for sale. Cannes is both a summit for the cinema elite and a giant film bazaar.Three Worlds Colliding at La CroisetteFor 11 days in May, three different worlds lead parallel lives – critics, deal-makers and red-carpet royalty – colliding almost by accident on the seafront boulevard known as La Croisette. Hundreds of critics watch multiple films a day with monastic discipline. When they give in to parties, they bitterly regret it the next morning. You can spot some of us sleeping through entire screenings; how some colleagues manage to review films is a mystery. I remember a well-known French critic who had such vivid dreams in the darkness that he became convinced they were scenes in the films. His reviews were full of brilliant analysis of moments that did not exist.We critics rush between screenings, press conferences, interviews, our desks and the bunker's free espresso machines, often forgetting to eat or even pee. Downstairs, in the bunker's basement, and in hotel suites and rented apartments, the film market runs day and night: buyers juggle numbers, producers charm, directors and screenwriters fight for their vision. Above them floats Cannes' top layer – stars and "talent" spending hours in hair and makeup before climbing the 24 steps of the red carpet in borrowed couture and jewellery. When people in the industry groan, "oh God, it's Cannes again", it is this collision of financial anxiety, choreographed glamour and sheer exhaustion they are bracing themselves for.The Magic and Meaning Behind the GlamourThese worlds sometimes collide in the most poetic or grotesque ways. One morning, rushing to my first screening at 7.30am, I was walking along the Croisette when I saw, coming towards me, slightly dishevelled in a tuxedo, Jack Nicholson on his way back to his hotel after a long night. I smiled, he smiled back. He was alone, no bodyguards, no chaperones. Those were the days. I also shared a lift with Takeshi Kitano in full samurai attire, and I will never forget turning into a hotel corridor and finding myself nose to nose with Max von Sydow – Ingmar Bergman's medieval knight from The Seventh Seal. My cinephile heart skipped a beat.One of my favourite sidebars in Cannes, alongside the competition where you watch the year's best crop of films, is Cannes Classics, showing restored world masterpieces and documentaries about cinema. I always start the festival there: it is the best way to reset and begin afresh. Then I am ready for the 10-day onslaught of motion pictures, and for the magic moment that precedes each Cannes screening – the festival's own jingle, a palm ascending the red carpet from underwater and then into the sky, lifted by the ethereal arpeggios of Camille Saint-Saëns's Carnival of the Animals.Cannes: Enduring Symbol of Cinematic ResistanceIn 1955, Cannes gave its first official Palme d'Or to Delbert Mann's Marty; half a century later I found myself befriending its wonderful star, Betsy Blair, on the Croisette. I had the joy of seeing Ken Loach twice climbing those steps to collect the Palme, escorted by police outriders from Nice airport as if he were a head of state. I watched Iranian directors Jafar Panahi and Mohammad Rasoulof showing films at peril to their lives. For all the craziness of the red carpet and the samurai outfits, Cannes never forgets that it was founded as a gesture of resistance. That, as much as the glamour and the exhaustion, is why we keep going back.

AI Encroaches on DIY Zine CultureThe self‑published zine, a staple of queer activism, Black feminism, and the riot‑grrrl movement, now faces a technological shift: creators are experimenting with artificial intelligence for layout, artwork, and even code. While some see it as a tool, many view it as antithetical to the handmade, scrappy ethos of zines.Scale of AI Adoption in Zine Production97‑page 90s‑inspired zine produced by Jesse Pimenta and Cheyce Batchelor using Figma’s AI tools.92‑page anti‑AI zine "I Should Be Allowed To Think" by Maddie Marshall, sold on Etsy.Online‑only zines increasingly rely on AI for design, layout, and website generation (e.g., Steve Simkins’s photo zine built with ChatGPT‑generated HTML).Implications for Underground Publishing and Creative AutonomyVeteran zine retailer Jeremy Leslie notes that AI‑generated zines are typically experimental statements about the limits of machine creativity. Creators like Rachel Goldfinger argue AI erodes critical thinking and threatens jobs for artists who rely on manual craft. Meanwhile, platforms such as Polyester now run AI‑detectors on submissions, underscoring a growing gatekeeping response.Future of Handmade Zines in an AI‑Driven LandscapeDespite the tension, many acknowledge that AI’s existence is inevitable. Ione Gamble suggests coexistence may be possible but warns it could undermine the low‑barrier, grassroots nature of zine making. The community’s next steps will likely involve hybrid workflows, clear ethical guidelines, and continued advocacy for the tactile, personal value of handmade publishing.

Forecasts indicate that the worldwide secondhand apparel sector will expand by 12% in 2024, reaching $289 bn (£217 bn), buoyed by artificial intelligence tools and social‑media influencers that help consumers locate desired items.Platforms such as Vinted, Depop, Vestige and ThredUp are expected to sustain an average 9% annual growth over the next five years, pushing the market to an estimated $393 bn—roughly double the growth rate of the broader clothing industry.The outlook stems from ThredUp’s latest resale report, which incorporates analysis from GlobalData. In 2021 the market was valued at just $141 bn, meaning the projected 2024 figure is more than double that baseline.Major brands—including Dr Martens, Zara and Mulberry—are now entering the resale space, either by offering pre‑owned pieces or refurbishing items to satisfy rising consumer demand."Resale is no longer merely expanding; it’s capturing direct market share," said James Reinhart, co‑founder and CEO of ThredUp. The report notes that resale now accounts for one‑tenth of global clothing sales, and that the U.S. secondhand market grew nearly four times faster than the overall market by 2025.ThredUp’s own revenue climbed 20% to $310.8 m last year. Depop reported a 42% increase to £101 m, while Vinted posted a 36% rise to €813.4 m (£710 m) in 2024. However, profitability remains elusive: ThredUp posted a $20 m pre‑tax loss, Depop a £42 m loss, and only Vinted turned a profit, earning €76.7 m. Depop was recently acquired by eBay from Etsy.Reinhart warned that rising inflation—spurred by geopolitical tensions that lift energy and fuel costs for manufacturers—could push more shoppers toward affordable secondhand options."The industry stays robust, driven by young consumers' behaviour," he added.Artificial intelligence is streamlining the massive inventories of resale platforms, enabling rapid cataloguing and matching of items to buyer preferences. "Netflix and Spotify spent decades building data and algorithms to recommend content; AI can achieve similar personalization for fashion almost instantly," Reinhart explained, noting that this reduces friction between spotting an item on social media and completing a purchase.Looking ahead, the market’s next phase will be defined by firms that can unlock supply and leverage AI to connect inventory with the next generation of shoppers, according to Reinhart.Analyst Neil Saunders of GlobalData highlighted that consumers aged 14‑45 (Gen Z and millennials) are projected to generate 70% of market growth. He emphasized that discovery tools must migrate to the social feeds where these shoppers spend their time, and that technology will be essential to simplify selling and maintain sufficient stock for expanding demand.