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The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

The Lead: A Disappointing Return to FormPalme d'Or winning Romanian director Cristian Mungiu presents "Fjord" at Cannes, a drama exploring child abuse allegations within a conservative Romanian-Norwegian family. The review criticizes the film as anticlimactic and underpowered, suggesting it represents a creative misstep for the acclaimed filmmaker.The Film: Cultural Collision and Moral Ambiguity"Fjord" follows Mihai (Sebastian Stan), a Romanian software engineer married to Norwegian woman Lisbet (Renate Reinsve), who relocate to her remote hometown. As fundamentalist Christians, they struggle when their parenting methods come under scrutiny from authorities after their children display bruises. The film explores themes of cultural differences, religious conservatism, and the complexities of the child protection system.Directorial Approach: Mungiu's Signature Style Under ScrutinyThe review notes that while "Fjord" bears Mungiu's signature visual style—enigmatic long shots, avoidance of closeups, and distinctive crowd scenes—it lacks the rewarding complexity and revelation that characterized his earlier work. The film fails to deliver a compelling truth about its relationships while also failing to intriguingly withhold any such truth from the audience.The Performance: Stan and Reinsve in Cultural TensionSebastian Stan portrays Mihai as an ice-cold patriarch whose conservative parenting methods clash with Norwegian social norms, while Renate Reinsve brings depth to Lisbet as she navigates the cultural and legal challenges. The supporting cast, particularly the teenage daughters played by Vanessa Ceban and Henrikke Lund-Olsen, add further layers to the family drama.Festival Context: Auteur Ambitions and International CoproductionsThe review suggests "Fjord" may represent part of an emerging trend at this year's Cannes, where established directors like Mungiu, Kantemir Balagov, and Ryusuke Hamaguchi are creating international coproductions outside their home turf with foreign stars. This phenomenon, potentially resulting from creative conversations at international festivals, may be leading to a loss of focus in their work.Critical Assessment: Moral Complexity Without ResolutionThe film attempts to balance sympathy for the children with understanding for the parents' cultural perspective, while also critiquing a system that may be biased against religious conservatives. However, the review finds the treatment of these themes unsatisfying, with the court case left unresolved and a strangely inert finale that fails to deliver meaningful closure or revelation about the relationship between the teenage girls.Legacy: A Setback for an Acclaimed FilmmakerFor Mungiu, whose 2007 Palme d'Or winning film "4 Months, 3 Weeks and 2 Days" established him as a major voice in international cinema, "Fjord" represents a creative disappointment. While his technical approach remains interesting, the film fails to deliver the depth and complexity that audiences have come to expect from the Romanian auteur.

The Challenge of Translating ShakespeareThe great Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges, who translated William Faulkner, André Gide, Franz Kafka and Virginia Woolf into Spanish, drew the line at Shakespeare. Speaking of the moment when Hamlet asks the ghost why it returns to haunt "the glimpses of the moon", Borges commented: "I don't think it can be translated. Perhaps the words can be translated. Certainly Shakespeare cannot be translated. 'The glimpses of the moon' means exactly 'the glimpses of the moon'."All, however, is not lost. "It has been said that Shakespeare cannot be translated into any other language," Borges added. "But Shakespeare cannot be translated into English, either, since he wrote what [Robert Louis] Stevenson called 'that amazing dialect, the Shakespeare-ese'." This might not be entirely true, as the translator Daniel Hahn points out in this superbly diverting book. Recalling a hip-hop production of Romeo and Juliet he once saw, he persuades us instantly that "the phrase 'Do you kiss your teeth at me, fam?' proved to be a perfect translation of 'Do you bite your thumb at us, sir?'"Shakespeare Across LanguagesAnd if into English, then why not into Portuguese, or French, or Māori? Hahn's project is to argue that "Shakespeare with every word changed can still be great, and can remain Shakespeare", and to that end he reproduces chunks of Dutch, Russian, Welsh, Thai, Arabic, Japanese, and a dozen other languages, betting that by simply counting syllables or observing alliteration in a language one doesn't understand (as he cheerfully admits, he doesn't understand Danish), one can learn something about the quality of a translation. I wasn't convinced that wager worked much of the time, but the typesetters, as you can imagine, were certainly getting a decent workout, and the gambit does finally pay off when a long passage from Twelfth Night is annotated by boxes mentioning dozens of different translators' choices.Cultural Adaptations in TranslationWhat really illuminates the book are Hahn's conversations with his fellow translators, who can explain their choices directly. In Māori, we learn, Lady Macbeth's question to her husband, "Are you a man?", makes no sense at all, so the translator Te Haumihiata Mason renders it as something roughly meaning "Have you got balls?" – "which is," Hahn notes contentedly, "exactly what Lady M is asking." Meanwhile, Prince Hal's name means "fish" in Hungarian, which would be unhelpfully distracting, so it gets changed to Riki, short for Henrik.Hahn also offers many asides about the annoyances and pleasures of translation in general. "The word 'literal' is annoyingly overused to suggest a sort of 'neutral' translation, which cannot exist," he complains; and he shows that, in many cases, a non-literal choice would be better. When Mark Antony imagines Caesar's spirit to "cry 'Havoc'", for example, the closest Portuguese word is the rather weak-sounding "devastação"; a better choice, Hahn shows, is "matança" (killing), because it's shorter and more easily shoutable.Translating Verse and JokesEach chapter addresses a different question translators face, for example whether to translate into verse (careful: as one French translator observes, you risk making "a genius into a talented versifier"), or how to translate jokes: it's usually best, everyone agrees, to create an entirely new joke – "being faithful to the laugh", as Hahn calls it. In a German Midsummer Night's Dream, to preserve the doggerel rhymes, we are promised not that Thisbe will be in "mulberry shade" but that she will be "hiding like a newt". Translators might even embrace the possibility of a joke where none previously existed – which Hahn illustrates brightly by mentioning that the "sorting hat" in Harry Potter has become, in French, le choixpeau (the chapeau that chooses).Poetic Elements and Title AdaptationsCan you even preserve alliteration? Sometimes, if you're lucky: Love's Labour's Lost received the surely unimprovable Greek title of "Agapēs Agōnas Agonos" ("the struggles of love are barren"). But when no such fortunate tricks are available, you can simply replace one idiom with another: so, in Spanish, Much Ado About Nothing is often called "A lot of noise, not many nuts".There are quibbles to be made here and there. Hahn calls a line from Richard III "irregular" after counting syllables, but it's a perfectly regular line that begins with an anapest (da-da-dum). And when Juliet says to Romeo "You kiss by th'book", Hahn glosses this as her approvingly noting his "formal courtship", but she is surely issuing a flirtatious challenge. And – this being the publisher's rather than the author's fault – the book has been produced, inexplicably, without an index.The Value of TranslationAll may be forgiven, though, for the delight and endless curiosity displayed in these pages. "In Shakespeare, people get sad with precision," Hahn enthuses. And he is cherishably bitchy about certain literary "translators" who somehow produce new English versions of Chekhov or Ibsen without speaking the source language – the process being, as he surmises, "a sort of high-status prettying up of a so-called 'literal' translation". By the end of the book, Hahn has amply demonstrated not only the treasures of other languages, but also the rich and strange inexhaustibility of Shakespeare himself.

Arthur Fils has turned a career‑threatening back injury into a springboard, emerging as one of the sport’s most charismatic contenders just as the French Open looms. The Parisian’s recent ATP 500 triumph in Barcelona and back‑to‑back Masters 1000 semi‑finals have vaulted him to No 5 in the ATP Race, while his candid interviews reveal a player who refuses to back down.The Comeback Narrative: From Back Fracture to ATP Race Top FiveFils spent eight months recovering from a stress fracture that forced his withdrawal from the 2025 French Open. During that period he overhauled his training, shedding weight and re‑engineering his strokes. The results are evident in his recent form:Winner of the ATP 500 Barcelona (June 2026)Semi‑finalist at the Miami Masters 1000 and Madrid Masters 1000Current position: No 5 in the ATP RaceInside the Technical Overhaul: New Service Motion and Forehand AdjustmentsGuided by coach Ivan Cinkus and mentor Goran Ivanisevic, Fils introduced several biomechanical tweaks:Lengthened service motion to increase racket head speedShortened forehand swing for a more compact, explosive hitAdopted open‑stance backhand slides across all surfacesReduced overall body mass to alleviate back stressThese changes have translated into a heavier, more reliable forehand and a steadier serve, key factors in his recent deep runs.Numbers That Matter: Rankings, Titles, and Prize MoneyThe statistical impact of Fils’s resurgence is striking:ATP Race points: 3,850 (up from 1,200 pre‑injury)Prize earnings 2026 (to date): $2.3 millionMatch win‑loss record 2026: 22‑5His climb to No 5 places him ahead of seasoned rivals such as Jannik Sinner and Carlos Alcaraz in the race for year‑end championships.Cultural Resonance: French Expectations and Family InfluenceFils’s story resonates beyond the court. Raised by his father Jean‑Philippe, a Haitian‑born former basketball player, the duo embodies a “tough love” ethos that contrasts with traditional French sporting narratives. Their close partnership—Jean‑Philippe travels to nearly every tournament—has become a talking point in French media, where athletes are often scrutinized harshly.His outspoken nature, from confronting trainers to calling out critics like Simon Dutin, underscores a shift toward more authentic athlete voices in French tennis.Looking Ahead: What Fils’s Trajectory Means for the 2026 SeasonWith the French Open imminent, expectations are high. If Fils maintains his physical health and continues to refine his game, he could:Challenge for his first Grand Slam semifinal or finalPotentially break into the top‑3 of the ATP rankings by year‑endInspire a new generation of French players to adopt a more aggressive, personality‑driven styleRegardless of the outcome, Fils’s blend of talent, tenacity, and transparency promises to keep him at the centre of tennis conversations throughout 2026 and beyond.

Opening the Silent Corridors of Cork’s AsylumThe Guardian’s latest review spotlights *Said the Dead*, a meticulously researched yet poetically daring study of the Cork Mental Hospital – once Ireland’s longest Gothic building, shuttered in the 1990s and now being turned into apartments. Doireann Ní Ghríofa uses the archive as a portal, giving voice to women whose stories were consigned to dusty casebooks.How Doireann Ní Ghríofa Reconstructed 19th‑Century Patient LivesWorking primarily from the hospital’s massive green casebooks, the author is forced to stop a century before the present to respect confidentiality, so the narrative centers on Victorian and Edwardian voices. She extracts vivid portraits – Bridget, a pregnant emigrant turned back home; Anna Martha, a painter who brandished a gun on magistrates; Dora, a sixteen‑year‑old yearning for death; and Muriel, wife of republican lord mayor Terence MacSwiney. The book also foregrounds Lucia Strangman, the first woman psychiatrist in the British Isles, as a thematic double for the author‑reader.Archive constraint: records stop at a 100‑year distance.Key patients: Bridget, Anna Martha, Dora, Muriel.Medical language: “fairies work on her nerves”, “dull”, “intelligent”.Why Revisiting the Asylum Matters for Irish Memory and Mental‑Health DiscourseThe review argues that the book does more than recount forgotten biographies; it interrogates the ethics of reading and surveillance. By positioning herself as “the Reader”, Ní Ghríofa acknowledges the power imbalance inherent in extracting lives from institutional records, echoing contemporary debates on mental‑health stigma and historical accountability. The work thus becomes a catalyst for broader conversations about how societies remember—and often erase—marginalised voices.What This Revival Signals for Historical Narrative and Public EngagementAs the former asylum is repurposed into luxury flats, *Said the Dead* reminds readers that commercial redevelopment can obscure painful histories. The book’s blend of scholarship and imagination may inspire similar projects that rescue silenced narratives, encouraging museums, publishers, and educators to foreground archival voices before they disappear beneath modern façades.

The Rise of New Podcast TalentThis week marks an exciting period in podcasting with several notable releases from established broadcasters and newcomers alike. Among the highlights is the debut of "Bad Chat" by beloved British broadcasting duo Alice Levine and Greg James, who finally team up for their own podcast after years of collaboration on other platforms.Notable Podcast LaunchesSeveral new podcasts have hit the airwaves this week, offering diverse content from true crime to cultural commentary. Alice Levine and Greg James' "Bad Chat" follows a chatty format where no topic is off limits as they invite listeners to share gripes and crises. Hunter Harris and Peyton Dix's "Lemme Say This" has been resurrected by the Obamas' Higher Ground production company after a short hiatus. Sam Mullins presents "Uncover: The Expert Witness," a Canadian CBC production that fuses technology and true crime. Nurse turned content creator Hunter Prosper brings "Stories from a Stranger," featuring polished chats with candid individuals. Roman Mars leads "A History of the United States in 100 Objects," a new take on historical storytelling through objects.The Podcast Industry's EvolutionThe current wave of podcast releases reflects several key trends in the industry: the continued growth of true crime and investigative journalism, the increasing involvement of high-profile figures and production companies (including the Obamas' Higher Ground), and the expansion of podcasting as a medium for cultural commentary and historical education. These developments demonstrate how podcasting has matured from a niche medium to a mainstream platform for diverse content creation.Future Podcast LandscapeLooking ahead, we can expect to see more collaborations between established media personalities and production companies, as well as continued innovation in podcast formats. The success of shows like "Bad Chat" suggests that authentic, unfiltered conversations between popular hosts will remain a winning formula. Additionally, the trend of podcasts expanding beyond audio to multimedia experiences, as seen with Hunter Prosper's visual storytelling approach, will likely continue to grow, making podcasts more immersive and accessible to wider audiences.

The Revamp of Apple's Siri Apple is poised to unveil a significant revamp of its virtual assistant, Siri, at the Worldwide Developers Conference in June. This update is seen as a crucial opportunity for Apple to regain its footing in the artificial intelligence (AI) landscape. Emphasis on Privacy According to Bloomberg's Mark Gurman, privacy will be a major theme of this revamp. Apple executives plan to highlight their more privacy-friendly approach compared to other AI companies. The new Siri will reportedly include features that limit how long user information can be stored and used. Auto-Deleting Chats and Limitations A key feature of the new Siri could be the ability to automatically delete conversations after a set period, similar to the Messages app. Users might be able to choose to delete chats after 30 days, one year, or keep them indefinitely. This move aims to address growing concerns about user data privacy. Partnership with Google Gemini The revamped Siri will be powered by Google Gemini, offering a chatbot experience similar to ChatGPT. However, Gurman suggests that Apple might be using the emphasis on privacy to overshadow Siri's limitations compared to competing products, and potentially to obscure Google's role in handling some of the security. The Future of AI Assistants As AI continues to evolve, Apple's focus on privacy with the new Siri could set a new standard for AI assistants. This strategic move might help Apple regain its relevance in the AI space, but it also raises questions about the balance between functionality and privacy.

The Rise of Antoine Semenyo Antoine Semenyo's career journey is a testament to perseverance and determination. From being rejected by clubs in London to becoming a key player for Manchester City, Semenyo's story is one of triumph over adversity. From Rejections to Success Semenyo faced numerous rejections, including one from Crystal Palace at the age of 15, which led him to stop playing football for a year. However, he rebuilt his career at the Wiltshire Sports Academy and South Gloucestershire and Stroud College in Bristol, eventually getting a big break at Bristol City. Loans and Progression Semenyo's journey included loans at Bath City, Newport, and Sunderland, before progressing to Bristol City in the Championship and eventually Bournemouth in the Premier League. He also earned international recognition with Ghana, playing in the 2022 World Cup in Qatar. A Stellar Season This season has been particularly remarkable for Semenyo. He moved from Bournemouth to Manchester City for £65m in January and has since played a crucial role in the team's success. He scored in the Carabao Cup final victory over Arsenal and netted the winning goal in the FA Cup final against Chelsea. The Impact of Semenyo's Success Semenyo's success has not gone unnoticed, with his 16 Premier League goals placing him among the top scorers in the league. His performances have also sparked conversations about his potential inclusion in player of the year awards. The Future Outlook As Manchester City chases a domestic treble, Semenyo remains focused on the task at hand. With Arsenal leading the league, City will need to push hard to catch up. Semenyo's next game against his former club Bournemouth will be particularly significant, with his old teammates eager to make an impact.

The Documentary’s Long Road to CannesIn 1972 William Greaves filmed a four‑hour cocktail party at Duke Ellington’s Harlem townhouse, gathering the last surviving figures of the Harlem Renaissance. Though the footage was intended for a feature titled From These Roots, it remained unfinished for 50 years. The project finally resurfaced when Greaves’ son David and granddaughter Liani completed the edit, earning a spot in Cannes’ Directors’ Fortnight in 2026. Restoring 60,000 Feet of 16mm FilmOriginal shoot: 60,000 feet of 16mm film captured.Restoration: Digitisation and colour correction undertaken by David and Liani Greaves.Archival work: Material passed from William to his widow Louise Greaves, then to the next generation after her death in 2023. Voices of the Harlem Renaissance ResurfaceThe film features painters, poets, musicians and activists such as Aaron Douglas, Richard Bruce Nugent, Arna Bontemps, Eubie Blake, Noble Sissle, James Van Der Zee and Ida Mae Cullen. Their conversations drift from jazz’s revolutionary impact to debates over terminology—whether to use “Negro” or “Afro‑American”—mirroring discussions that persist today. Contemporary Resonance: Race, Memory, and Global PoliticsDavid Greaves draws parallels between historic footage of Haile Selassie’s 1936 appeal to the League of Nations and modern leaders like Volodymyr Zelenskyy. The documentary also confronts America’s ongoing racial violence, juxtaposing archival anti‑lynching poetry with present‑day activism, underscoring how three generations are still voting on the same struggle. Looking Ahead: Release Plans and Cultural LegacyFollowing its Cannes debut, the team aims to release the full film ahead of William Greaves’ centenary in October 2026, with retrospectives slated for New York and the Barbican in London. Critics such as Richard Brody have already hailed it as “one of the greatest talking pictures,” positioning the documentary to cement Greaves’ reputation as a chronicler of African‑American history.