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The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

The Lead Bitter Christmas, the latest film from Pedro Almodóvar, is a complex and personal movie that explores themes of grief, loss, and artistic betrayal. The film, which screened at the Cannes film festival, is a double-layered creation that blurs the lines between reality and fiction. Almodóvar's Film Within a Film With its rich, warm, summery colours, nothing could surely be less bitter or less Christmassy than this film. It’s the latest from Cannes competition regular Pedro Almodóvar, partly set during Christmas; the female lead actually complains about the yuletide traffic at one stage. But there’s no tinsel or sleigh bells or shopping for presents. Like Die Hard, it eludes classification. It is another – which is to say, yet another – double-layered creation by Almodóvar, a kind of movie auto-metafiction of the sort that he has virtually invented, a life-v-art dialectical process that he is evidently unable to do without. Exploring Themes of Grief and Loss Like the recent Pain and Glory, Bitter Christmas is a candidly personal movie, circling around ideas like grief, loss, the vampirism of art and the betrayal involved in basing fictional characters on real people. Perhaps by emphasising this last point, Almodóvar is pre-empting or cauterising a crisis in his own life, showing us a gay male artist’s perspective on the question of whether women are not being given enough credit as the wellspring for inspiration or indeed as artists themselves. The Film's Complex Structure The film features a complex structure, with a story within a story. In the mid-2000s, an era of fliptop phones, Elsa (Bárbara Lennie) is a struggling indie film-maker now reduced to shooting TV ads; her younger boyfriend Bonifacio (Patrick Criado) is a firefighter and part-time lapdancer whom she met at a club on a hen night when she went backstage to offer him the lead in her upcoming underpants commercial. Elsa has friends who are plagued with problems: Patricia (Victoria Luengo) has to deal with a young son while her husband is away on business trips where he is cheating on her, and Natalia (played by Milena Smit, from Almodóvar’s Parallel Mothers) is profoundly depressed by the loss of her young son. The Impact of Artistic Betrayal But all this is being imagined in the present day by a grey-haired film director called Raúl (Leonardo Sbaraglia), who is working on an autobiographical script of his own called Bitter Christmas; Elsa would appear to be a version of him while his boyfriend Santi (Quim Gutiérrez) is clearly the model for Bonifacio. But the entire action of the film seems to be projected from the complex relationship with his friend and producing partner Mónica (Aitana Sánchez-Gijón), who is leaving him at a difficult time for a three-month sabbatical to be with her friend Elena whose son is desperately ill. The Future of Almodóvar's Filmography What we are perhaps leading to is an epiphany of truth for Raúl as artist and friend. Elsa is not based on him; he, Raúl, is not the centre of things. In fact, Elsa is his friend and ally Mónica, whom he has been taking for granted. That is the real parallel and it is Mónica’s feelings and Mónica’s identity who should be the central inspiration of his script and indeed the central point of his life right now. This is the enlightenment which he arguably approaches when he continues his script past the “The End” of the first draft, as Elsa appears to be coming to terms with her mother’s parting.

The Lead: A Disappointing Return to FormHirokazu Kore-eda's latest film "Sheep in the Box" has premiered at the Cannes Film Festival to largely negative reviews, with critics describing it as a "bafflingly unsatisfying and unconvincing muddle of ideas and moods." The film, which explores the concept of AI humanoid robot children replacing deceased children, represents a significant departure for the acclaimed director, whose previous works have been celebrated for their emotional depth and nuanced storytelling.The Film: A Futuristic Tale of Grief and Technology"Sheep in the Box" follows Otone (Haruka Ayasi), an architect, and her husband Kensuke (Daigo Yamamoto), a carpenter, who are offered a promotional free offer by a company called REbirth: an ultra-hi-tech humanoid robot replica of their deceased seven-year-old son Kakeru. The robot is designed to have the physical form, speech patterns, and memories of the original child, based on videos, photos, and other research materials provided by the grieving parents.The film presents several intriguing concepts: the robot being taken to the scene of the hit-and-run that killed the original Kakeru in hopes of recovering details about the culprit; the robot serving as a confessor for Kensuke to admit his guilt about his son's death; and a subplot involving other abandoned robot children planning a "replicant revolt." However, these ideas remain largely undeveloped, leaving audiences with more questions than answers.Critical Reception: A Missed OpportunityThe review from The Guardian is particularly scathing, noting that the film "isn't as interesting as films on similar themes including Kogonada's After Yang and Benjamin Cleary's Swan Song." The critic specifically faults Kore-eda's "quietist, un-emphasised style" for being unsuitable to the material, suggesting that the director's typically subtle approach doesn't work with the ambitious sci-fi concepts presented.One of the primary criticisms is the film's tonal inconsistency, attempting to be both a sci-fi dystopia and a relatable story about parental grief, with these two elements ultimately undermining each other. The performances are also noted as problematic, with the robot child being "unpersuasively performed in a returning keynote of bland serenity," while the human parents react with bizarre matter-of-factness to what should be an emotionally charged situation.Impact on Kore-eda's Legacy and AI CinemaThis film represents a significant departure for Hirokazu Kore-eda, whose previous works like "Shoplifters" and "Like Father, Like Son" have been celebrated for their emotional authenticity and humanistic approach. The negative reception of "Sheep in the Box" raises questions about whether the director can successfully transition into more genre-oriented territory while maintaining his signature style.In the broader context of AI cinema, the film joins a growing conversation about artificial intelligence and humanity in film, alongside works like Spike Jonze's "Her" and Alex Garland's "Ex Machina." However, where those films have been praised for their thoughtful exploration of AI ethics and human connection, "Sheep in the Box" appears to have missed the mark, failing to deliver either compelling drama or meaningful commentary on its central themes.Future Outlook: A Setback in an Otherwise Distinguished CareerWhile "Sheep in the Box" may represent a misstep for Kore-eda, it's unlikely to significantly impact the director's otherwise distinguished career. The filmmaker has previously demonstrated remarkable range and depth, and this ambitious if flawed experiment may ultimately be viewed as an interesting if unsuccessful detour rather than a definitive statement on his abilities.For audiences interested in exploring AI and humanity in cinema, the film serves as a cautionary tale about the challenges of blending emotional storytelling with complex technological concepts. As the conversation around AI continues to evolve in both society and art, "Sheep in the Box" may be remembered more for what it attempted than for what it ultimately achieved.

The Film's Wartime ContextLife during wartime is the central theme of Andrei Zvyagintsev's latest film, 'Minotaur.' Set in provincial Russia, the movie presents a portrait of a nation paralyzed with disillusionment and fear, slowly coming to terms with, or retreating into collective denial about, the terrible mistake in Ukraine. The film draws inspiration from Claude Chabrol's 'La Femme Infidèle' (1969), Gogol's 'Dead Souls,' and the Greek myth of the Minotaur requiring 14 sacrifices.At its core, 'Minotaur' is a noir thriller of infidelity and vengeful murder, given new meaning by the context of deadly cynicism and political bad faith. It depicts a world in which powerful people, consumed by self-hate, have made covering up misdeeds their way of life.The Narrative of DisillusionmentThe story follows Gleb, a mini-oligarch businessman played by Dmitriy Mazurov, who lives in a town far from Moscow with his elegant but unhappy wife Galina (Iris Lebedeva) and their teen son. The setting is marked by the presence of the letter Z on car windshields and military trains, symbolizing support for the war effort.Gleb's marriage has been damaged by his past infidelities, and now he suspects his wife of cheating. However, more pressing matters emerge when local business leaders are summoned by the mayor (whose office displays a photo of Putin) and instructed to provide disposable male employees for the war effort.The Director's VisionZvyagintsev, who survived a severe bout of COVID-19 that caused 90% lung damage according to a related Guardian article, delivers a film with cold daylit compositions and scenes in grim streets and housing estates. Everything in the film looks like a crime scene, reflecting the moral decay at its center.The performances from Mazurov and Lebedeva are outstanding, particularly in the film's central extended silent sequence. Zvyagintsev masterfully portrays the chilling moral compromises made by characters who have normalized violence and deception as survival mechanisms in a corrupt system.Cultural and Political Commentary'Minotaur' functions as both personal drama and societal critique. When Gleb must provide 14 employees for the war, he calculates that he can advertise for 14 truck drivers with inflated salaries, knowing they'll be drafted before he ever has to pay them. This scheme represents the soul-blackening evil of a system that treats human lives as disposable commodities.The film also explores toxic masculinity through a scene where Gleb teaches his bullied son to threaten violence rather than seek help from authorities. This moment reveals the poisonous education in violence that perpetuates cycles of aggression and dehumanization.Festival Reception and SignificanceScreened at the prestigious Cannes film festival, 'Minotaur' continues Zvyagintsev's tradition of creating politically charged cinema that holds up a mirror to contemporary Russian society. The film's exploration of moral compromise in wartime positions it as a significant cultural document of Russia's current social and political climate.As Russia's war in Ukraine continues, 'Minotaur' serves as both artistic expression and implicit commentary on the psychological and moral costs of a nation at war with itself and its neighbors. The film's noir elements are amplified by the real-world context of deception, cover-ups, and the sacrifice of ordinary people for political agendas.

The Film's Poignant Portrayal With warmth and heartfelt passion, and a quintet of outstanding performances from young actors shot in looming closeup for so much of the time, Clio Barnard has created an absorbing and moving social-realist picture. It’s a film whose mix of poignancy, defiance and contaminated euphoria stayed with me hours after the closing credits. The Event Details The film is about five young people from Birmingham who grew up together, reaching the end of their 20s, sensing a looming crisis and on the verge of a tragedy that is mysteriously growing from within their own increasing disparity. It is adapted by screenwriter Enda Walsh from the novel of the same name by Kieran Goddard. The Characters' Struggles We are introduced to our five musketeers at a boozy and weed-and-coke fuelled birthday party where the good times are laced with a suspicion that the party is actually now over. First among equals is Rian, played by Joe Cole, the one from their friend-group who has made something of himself. Using an inheritance from his late father, Rian hit the jackpot dealing in stock warrants online and while his mates are living modestly or in squalor, he has now bought a chilly and soulless designer flat in London. The Impact of Capitalism The film suggests that building and housing are a mythic centre to their five lives. It’s the centre also of a revived debate: is housing a social right or a maturing capital asset and loan security for the well-off? The demolition of Birmingham’s brutalist tower blocks when they were kids was a spectacular, formative event. The Future Outlook This is such a sad, sweet film, finally laced with sobriety and hope. The divisions between Rian and Patrick and Patrick and Shiv might not have opened up the way they did, but then Oli’s life would not have turned around either.

The Long-Awaited TriumphA jubilant Bukayo Saka hit back at Arsenal's critics by saying "they're not laughing at us any more" as the club celebrated their first Premier League title in 22 years. Arsenal players and staff gathered at their London Colney training base to watch Manchester City draw 1-1 with Bournemouth, guaranteeing the Gunners their first championship since 2004.The Road to VictoryThere were wild scenes at Arsenal's training ground, and outside the Emirates Stadium, where thousands of supporters gathered to toast the club's success by lighting fireworks and flares. Ian Wright, who scored 185 times for Arsenal and won the title in 1998, was mobbed by fans as he joined in on the party outside the club's ground.Overcoming DoubtsArsenal, runners-up in the league for the previous three seasons, faced accusations of "bottling" their trophy push after they lost at City on 19 April. But while City subsequently drew at Everton and Bournemouth, Arsenal bounced back by winning their next four without conceding to finish top.Arteta's Vision RealizedMikel Arteta, who rejoined Arsenal as manager in December 2019 with the club in disarray, installed a blacked-out Premier League trophy at the training base which would light up only when the club were champions.Players' Response to Critics"Light that up," Saka said in footage posted by Jurriën Timber on his Instagram account. "Let me tell you something. Twenty-two years, 22 years. There was laughing, there was joking, they're not laughing any more. Look, it is going to be shining, it is going to be shining bright."In an Instagram story, this time on Saka's channel, Myles Lewis-Skelly is holding a champagne bottle. "They called us bottlers," said Lewis-Skelly. "And now we're holding the bottle."The Celebration ContinuesSome of the players took their celebration party to the Emirates, with Eberechi Eze posting a picture outside the stadium alongside Declan Rice, Timber and Saka, in the early hours of Wednesday. Eze's three Instagram slides also included a picture of an Arsenal-branded bottle in another jibe at the club's detractors.

The Evolution of the Romantic Comedy ProtagonistIt's a long-running romcom trope that the couples we're supposed to root for are often hiding lies that threaten the chances of any happy relationship blossoming. From classics such as The Shop Around the Corner to modern blockbusters such as How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days, the genre thrives whenever it presents the audience with the most alarming red flags it conceals from its characters, raising the stakes by seeing if sparks can still fly when an ulterior motive behind each meet-cute is hidden in plain sight.The Sociopath Archetype in Contemporary RomcomsIn the romantic comedies we've seen so far this year, this trope has not only been revived but pushed far beyond its breaking point, cementing a new romcom archetype: the unlucky-in-love sociopath. This week's new release Finding Emily is the starkest example to date, introducing psychology student Emily (Angourie Rice), whose desperation to find a good case study for her dissertation essay on the self-destructive nature of love leads her to concoct a machiavellian scheme to paint university student Owen (Spike Fearn) as an obsessive stalker.Owen is a kind-hearted employee of her university's student union bar, only meeting Emily after his search to find a different Emily he danced with the previous night leads him in the wrong direction. After she sees him plant posters around the campus, Rice's Emily decides to help him as fuel for coursework she should have handed in already, faking his signature on consent forms, secretly recording their every conversation, and insisting he make grand public gestures that paint him in a bad light. With this being a romantic comedy, certain tropes must be adhered to and feelings gradually form between the two, but the initial lie has cast such a destructive shadow over Owen's life that it doesn't feel triumphant for the audience when he realises it was more than just a friend who betrayed him.Red Flags and Deception in Recent RomcomsLast month, audiences were treated to another romcom sociopath in Halle Bailey's Anna Montgomery, the heroine of the frothy You, Me & Tuscany. A house-sitter who lives vicariously through her clients and imagines their lives as her own, we're introduced to her getting fired after getting caught wearing clothes that don't belong to her – which yes, does include underwear. After a one-night stand with a handsome Italian man, she saves photos of his glamorous Tuscan villa and flies to Europe to squat there, justifying her presence to his family by pretending she is his new fiancee. It's red flag after red flag in a haphazard scheme to maintain a life of luxury on someone else's dime, and the fact she successfully wins over another new interest during this ruse is less shocking than the Italian family forgiving her because they found her that charming.This trope of a relationship built on a lie was very deliberately weaponised in Kristoffer Borgli's hit black comedy The Drama, which juxtaposes one mundane white lie – Charlie (Robert Pattinson) pretending to have read a book he sees Emma (Zendaya) reading so he could talk to her – with her choice to conceal from him the worst thing she's ever done. The genius of The Drama isn't just that Emma is far less of a sociopath than many of those judging her for her teenage planning of a crime she didn't go through with, but that it exposes why modern romantic comedies are making their love interests far more extreme. These are characters who likely would have swiped left on each other if they didn't meet in the real world due to lack of immediate shared interests, with Charlie's planned wedding speech notably lacking any specificity about his wife-to-be.The Digital Dating Disconnect in Modern RomanceThe concept of a real-life meet-cute is growing increasingly alien in a world where more relationships are beginning online, and many reports point towards gen Z opting out of the dating market altogether. The revival of romcoms aimed at millennial and gen-Z audiences coincides with a need to reflect this sea change in how young people approach relationships, which is why we're starting to see an influx of stories that feel more like cautionary tales than traditional examples of the genre. We're still a world away from a horror movie subversion of the meet-cute such as the thriller Fresh, where Daisy Edgar-Jones unwittingly locked eyes with cannibal Sebastian Stan in a grocery store, but film-makers in both genres seem keenly aware that the digital world provides barriers to dating nightmares like these. Neither can function as well if you get to know somebody first and block them before any carnage can ensue.There are, of course, plenty of horror stories about online dating to be told; there's a cottage industry of true crime documentaries such as The Tinder Swindler which revel in the horrors that could be inflicted upon you if you swipe right. The modern romcom remains stubbornly offline in comparison, largely because the love interests it presents wouldn't be reflected well in a dating app bio. In a world where the most viral social posts about dating are from young people outlining their specific "icks" in potential partners, most of this new crop of romcom couples wouldn't sustain a Bumble conversation if they had a better handle on each other's personalities.The Future of Romantic StorytellingWith younger people remaining cynical about love and romcoms struggling to justify classic tropes in an online-driven dating world, these won't be the last films in a wave that feels more harrowing than idealistic. As our dating lives become increasingly filtered through digital interfaces, the romantic comedy genre may need to evolve further to maintain relevance, potentially exploring how relationships can form authentically in a world where first impressions are increasingly curated and deception is just a swipe away.

The Lead: A Diplomatic Pivot in BeijingChinese President Xi Jinping welcomed Russian President Vladimir Putin with military ceremony and pageantry in the Great Hall of the People, marking a significant diplomatic meeting just days after Xi hosted US President Donald Trump in the same location. The high-profile summit underscores China's delicate diplomatic balancing act between major global powers as it navigates complex international relationships.The Event Details: Ceremonial Beginnings and Diplomatic StructureThe meeting began with a formal ceremony featuring Chinese soldiers in position as a military band played the Russian and Chinese national anthems. Children waving both countries' flags cheered "Welcome, welcome!" in Chinese before the leaders entered the Great Hall. The talks followed a structured format, beginning with a "narrow format meeting" featuring fewer delegates to discuss sensitive issues, followed by a "wide format meeting" with full delegations. Chinese Foreign Minister Wang Yi, who greeted Putin upon his arrival, also held talks with his Russian counterpart Sergei Lavrov.The Strategic Context: Balancing Global RelationshipsThe timing of Putin's visit, coming so soon after Trump's meeting with Xi, has drawn significant attention to China's diplomatic positioning. In his opening remarks, Xi expressed concerns about the world reverting to the "law of the jungle," while Putin hailed the countries' relationship as being at an "unprecedented level." The contrast between China's approach to Putin versus Trump is notable, with the warm relationship between Xi and Putin standing in contrast to the more adversarial nature of US-China relations. The leaders have developed increasingly close ties, referring to each other as "dear" and "old" friends in recent years.The Global Implications: Regional Conflicts and Economic AlliancesBoth leaders addressed the Middle East crisis during their talks, with Xi stating that further hostilities were "inadvisable" and that a "comprehensive ceasefire is of utmost urgency." Meanwhile, Putin emphasized Russia's role as a "reliable energy supplier" amid the ongoing crisis. For Putin, reciprocal trade and investment are likely top priorities as his sanctions-hit economy continues to suffer under the growing cost of Moscow's war in Ukraine. Notably, as Xi prepared to welcome Putin, China confirmed it will purchase 200 Boeing jets and seek an extension of the trade agreement with the US reached in Kuala Lumpur last year, signaling China's continued economic engagement with multiple global powers.The Future Outlook: Evolving International DynamicsThe optics and outcomes of Xi's meeting with Putin will be carefully analyzed, particularly given its proximity to the Trump visit. The summit highlights China's strategy of engaging with multiple major powers simultaneously while maintaining its own strategic interests. Putin's invitation for Xi to visit Russia next year suggests the continuation of this warming relationship. As global power dynamics continue to shift, China's ability to navigate complex relationships with both Russia and the US will remain a critical factor in international diplomacy, with potential implications for everything from regional conflicts to global economic stability.

The Plant That Changed MedicineGoat's rue or French lilac, Galega officinalis, is a wild plant often grown in gardens for its clusters of attractive lilac or white flowers. For centuries, the plant was used to treat diabetes. Its key ingredient was later identified as galegine, which lowers blood glucose levels but has toxic side-effects.From Natural Remedy to Synthetic SolutionEventually, galegine led to the development of the synthetic drug metformin, now the classic treatment for diabetes by controlling blood sugar. Metformin has none of the toxic side effects of galegine and is now one of the most prescribed drugs in the world. For many years, however, metformin was vilified and banned in many countries because of its association with galegine.The Emergence of a Medical MultitaskerMetformin is now becoming something of a super drug for its anti-cancer effects, cardiovascular protection, delaying the onset of diabetes, and helping some people lose weight. It may even lower the risks for cognitive decline, dementia, strokes, slow aging and increase life expectancy.Understanding the MechanismExactly how metformin achieves all these remarkable wonders is not entirely understood, but it is not bad for a drug that originally came from an attractive wild plant. The scientific community continues to research the multiple pathways through which this simple compound derived from a garden plant can have such profound effects on human health.