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The LeadPrice is not a reliable indicator of whether a T‑shirt is ethically made or durable. Researchers and industry experts explain why a higher price tag does not guarantee better labour or environmental standards, and why a very low price should raise suspicion.Price vs Ethics: What the Research ShowsGood on You founder Gordon Renouf notes that their rating of over 7,000 brands shows no clear link between price and ethical performance. Dr Eleanor Scott of the University of Leeds adds that higher retail prices often reflect branding, marketing and retailer margins rather than improved standards.University research, in partnership with the Waste Resource Action Programme, tested the top 10 best‑performing T‑shirts and found that six of them cost less than £15, outperforming many expensive alternatives, including one priced at £395.Numbers Behind the Claim7,000+ brands rated on worker and animal welfare, plus sustainability.Top 10 tested T‑shirts: 6 priced under £15, 1 priced at £395.Low‑price fast‑fashion items such as £3 or £5 T‑shirts cannot cover living wages or responsible material sourcing.Affordable ethical examples: Yes Friends starts at £12; Rapanui from £18; Brothers We Stand at £20; THTC at £30.Implications for Consumers and BrandsFor shoppers, a very low price should be treated as a warning sign, while a higher price is no guarantee of ethical credentials. Brands that adopt large‑scale production, low margins and direct‑to‑consumer models—such as Yes Friends—demonstrate that ethical standards can coexist with competitive pricing.However, experts caution that scaling such models is challenging, especially for smaller sustainable labels that lack buying power.Looking Ahead: How the Market May EvolveAs transparency tools like Good on You gain traction, consumers are likely to rely more on verified ratings than price cues. The industry may see a gradual shift toward business models that decouple ethical outcomes from premium pricing, while regulators and NGOs push for clearer price‑floor guidelines to protect workers and the environment.

The Climate Policy Reversal in Blue States Democratic-led states are eroding their climate policies, as red states are scaling up their clean energy deployment. California on Friday scaled back its cap-and-invest program, offering more than $3bn in free pollution allowances to polluting companies. Earlier the same week, New York weakened its groundbreaking climate law, delaying a plan to regulate carbon from 2024 until 2028 and reducing emissions-slashing targets. Rhode Island's governor, meanwhile, is attempting to roll back aggressive clean-energy programs. The Economic Justification vs. Climate Imperative The moves come as Donald Trump's administration withdraws clean energy incentives and energy savings programs, and as energy prices spike across the country amid trade disruptions stemming from the US-Israeli war on Iran. Proponents have said the changes are necessary to suppress electricity costs, but climate advocates say that view is short-sighted and misguided. "Using affordability as a cudgel to weaken climate policy is a major error that will not solve either crisis, ultimately amplifying both," said Johanna Bozuwa, executive director of the Climate and Community Institute, a left-leaning thinktank. "Extreme weather and fossil-fuel dependency directly inflate costs – for food, energy, transportation, housing, and health – across the economy for working people." American Public Opinion on Climate Change Polls show most Americans are concerned about the climate crisis. An annual poll from Gallup, published in April, shows that 44% of American adults say they worry "a great deal" about global warming – one of the highest levels of concern since 1989, when the poll was first conducted, behind only 2020 and 2017. About 65% of registered voters in the US also think global heating is driving up the cost of living, according to a report published in December by Yale University and George Mason University. Red States Lead Clean Energy Buildout In contrast to many Democratic-led jurisdictions, red states have tended to dominate renewable energy deployment in recent years. In terms of growth of utility-scale renewables, states that voted for Donald Trump in the 2024 presidential election made up eight of the top 10 in the year to March, according to Energy Information Administration data. Indiana tops the list of states with the most clean energy capacity growth in that timeframe, followed by Kentucky and Utah. More broadly, though, it is Texas that has emerged as the country's leading clean energy superpower, despite its strong ties to the oil and gas industry and unsuccessful attempts within the Republican-led legislature to curb the growth of wind and solar. Texas leads the country in wind energy production, followed by fellow red states Iowa, Oklahoma and Kansas, and in March overtook California in utility-scale solar, too. The Paradox of Climate Leadership Meanwhile, the states scaling back their emissions-cutting policies have long called themselves climate leaders. When Governor Gavin Newsom of California extended his state's cap-and-invest program last year, he said: "We're doubling down on our best tool to combat Trump's assaults on clean air … by making polluters pay for projects that support our most impacted communities." The changes could end up giving more money to the fossil fuel producers and distributors who have been increasing consumers' energy prices amid the Iran war, said Bahram Fazeli, Policy Director with Communities for a Better Environment, a grassroots organization in California. "There's no reason to think that giving them more free allowances will actually help motivate them to lower gas prices more," he said. Long-Term Economic Implications New York advocates are also skeptical about whether the weakening of the 2019 Climate Leadership and Community Protection Act – which the state touted as among the strongest climate laws the country – will deliver long-term benefits. The state legislature last week reached a deal with Governor Kathy Hochul to remove a 2030 mandate to cut planet-warming pollution by 40% from 1990 levels, instead including language to aim for a 60% by 2040 if it is "feasible and cost effective" to do so. "Even though you might see bill savings initially, that's going to come at the cost of locked-in, higher energy costs in the future, as the grid has to procure more energy that would otherwise have been saved," Anna Johnson, a senior policy manager State at American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, told Baltimore's NPR affiliate WYPR; she estimates that the moves could ultimately increase households' electricity costs by $592m. The True Cost of Inaction The climate crisis itself also costs for working people, said Mar Zepeda Salazar, legislative director of the national environmental justice coalition Climate Justice Alliance. "You can lower costs on paper by weakening protections, but the bill still comes due," she said. "It just shows up in emergency rooms, insurance premiums, utility bills, lost wages, and disaster recovery – that families pay, not industry."

The Lead Microsoft has announced new measures to tighten human rights controls when working with national security agencies after an inquiry into the Israeli military's use of its cloud technology for mass surveillance of Palestinians. Microsoft's Inquiry and New Measures The inquiry was launched last year in response to a Guardian investigation with Israeli-Palestinian publication +972 Magazine and Hebrew-language outlet Local Call, revealing how the Israeli military used Microsoft's cloud to store a vast trove of intercepted Palestinian phone calls. Microsoft terminated the Israeli military's access to cloud and AI services used to support the surveillance project after initial findings showed its spy agency, Unit 8200, had violated the company's terms of service. The Data Analysis Microsoft's inquiry found that Unit 8200 had used Microsoft's Azure cloud platform to operate an indiscriminate system that allowed its intelligence officers to collect, play back and analyse the content of millions of Palestinian cellular phone calls every day. The company has previously said senior executives such as its chief executive, Satya Nadella, were unaware Unit 8200 was using Azure to store intercepted Palestinian communications. The Impact Analysis The revelations prompted concerns at a senior level within Microsoft that some employees at its Israeli subsidiary had not been fully transparent with headquarters about their knowledge of how Unit 8200 used the company's technology. Sources familiar with the inquiry said it had examined how some of Microsoft's Tel Aviv-based employees had felt conflicting loyalties between their obligations to the company and their support for the Israeli military after the Hamas-led 7 October attacks on southern Israel. The Prediction Microsoft has said it will adopt a series of recommendations intended to improve the "effectiveness of our human-rights governance". The company will examine how it manages security clearances "in certain countries" and "make changes to ensure that our employees understand how to navigate security clearance requirements as part of their work for Microsoft". The new measures include periodic reviews to check whether Microsoft's acceptable use policies are being followed by customers when there are "new political circumstances or changes to sensitive projects", as well as steps to strengthen human-rights due-diligence processes in "conflict-affected and high-risk areas".

Spring Sunshine Sparks May Footfall Bounce‑BackMay saw a noticeable rise in UK high‑street visits as sunny weather provided a brief respite from the economic strain caused by the US‑Israel war on Iran. The British Retail Consortium (BRC) and accountancy firm BDO both reported a reversal of the sharp footfall decline recorded in April.Retail Sales Edge Up While Overall Footfall Stays Below Last YearBDO reported that total high‑street sales grew 3.4% compared with May 2025. The BRC noted a 2.6% decline in overall footfall versus May 2025, but highlighted a much steeper 10.7% slump in April.High streets: footfall down 1.7% YoYShopping centres & retail parks: footfall down 2.4% YoYConsumer Confidence Climbs to Highest Level Since 2021A YouGov poll, in partnership with the Centre for Economics and Business Research, showed the confidence index rise 2.6 points to 104.9 in May, the biggest jump in five years. Respondents also reported improved perceptions of household finances and house‑price outlooks (from 128.6 to 130.5).Mixed Economic Signals Amid Rising CostsThe OECD upgraded its UK growth forecast to 0.9% for 2026, up from 0.7% in March, but unemployment has unexpectedly risen to 5% and energy bills are set to climb sharply later in the year.Future Outlook: Seasonal Boosts Countered by Geopolitical and Energy RisksIndustry leaders such as Helen Dickinson, BRC chief executive, caution that the late‑May heat wave dampened footfall and that any uplift from events like the World Cup may be offset by ongoing uncertainty from the conflict‑driven energy price surge and the closure of the Strait of Hormuz. Sophie Michael, head of retail at BDO, warns that higher costs could force consumers to tighten spending, keeping the longer‑term retail outlook “fairly bleak”.

The LeadTelevision viewers are in for a diverse lineup tonight, with Emilia Clarke taking center stage in a cold war spy drama, culinary competition reaching its finale, and international football action. The evening offers something for every taste, from reality dating shows to historical documentaries and supernatural westerns.Emilia Clarke's Cold War Spy Drama9pm, Sky AtlanticEmilia Clarke learned Russian for this exciting cold war comedy drama and continues to flex her impressive skills as US spy Bea. She prepares to go on a date with a KGB agent to strengthen her cover, and gets some tips from Twila. Meanwhile, Twila is also taking secret calls to investigate a number of sex worker murders.Culinary Competition at Its Peak8pm, BBC OneAfter an intense Chef's Table stage at Opheem in Birmingham, where the finalists prepared sand carrot in eight different ways for Michelin-starred chefs, the remaining trio now face their toughest challenge. They must create their best three-course menus in just three hours for the judges.Garden Inspiration for Viewers8pm, BBC TwoThe roses are peaking at Longmeadow, giving Monty Don the chance to celebrate England's favourite flower in all its various guises. There are tips for viewers whose blooms aren't quite in bloom, while Brighton's city garden shows what can be achieved in cramped urban spaces, and a Bedfordshire plot full of succulents demonstrates tropical gardening possibilities.Summer Travel Concerns8pm, Channel 4With headlines suggesting that the Iran war is sending jet fuel prices soaring and causing flight cancellations, Kate Quilton investigates whether there's more chance of getting stuck abroad this summer or if airlines might actually start offering super bargains to compete.National Trust's Hidden Treasures9pm, BBC TwoAnother trip behind the velvet ropes to witness the restoration efforts of National Trust staff. At Snowshill Manor in the Cotswolds, a child's suit of lacquered samurai armour requires some serious TLC, while at Calke Abbey in Derbyshire a variety of historic stuffed birds need their feathers unruffled.Love Stories Across Generations10pm, Channel 4Love can strike at any age, as this week's visit to Cupid's restaurant proves. On one table, 62-year-old hairdresser Liz has a promising night with builder Paul. Over on another table, 19-year-olds Rue and Kaitlyn are only just dipping their toes into the world of dating.Film Highlights for TonightDead Man's Wire (Gus Van Sant, 2025), 8am, 8pm, Sky Cinema PremiereThe spirit of the Al Pacino classic Dog Day Afternoon is alive and well in Gus Van Sant's drama. Bill Skarsgård is all gangly, edgy energy as Tony Kiritsis, a low-level Indianapolis land developer who takes ML Hall's son hostage using a contraption connected to a shotgun.Devil in the Dust (Ned Crowley, 2025), Paramount+This western is knocked off-kilter almost immediately when a cute little blond girl kills a horse by touching it. The supernatural frisson never really goes away as we follow Guy Pearce's grizzled, ether-addicted doctor Bender on a quest to a preacher who can supposedly take out the devil in the girl.Live Sports ActionWomen's World Cup Football, Spain v England, 7.30pm, ITV1A qualifier in Palma, Mallorca brings together these two footballing nations in an important match that could impact their standings in the tournament.

The New Zealand national football team, the All Whites, have secured a place at the 2026 World Cup in the United States, Canada and Mexico. Ranked 85th, they face a daunting Group G line‑up of Belgium, Egypt and Iran, but a professional‑era squad and a seasoned coach give them a realistic shot at reaching the knockout stage for the first time. All Whites' Road to the 2026 World Cup After winning Oceania’s sole qualifying spot, New Zealand entered the tournament with a markedly different profile from the part‑time side that appeared in South Africa 2010. Coach Darren Bazeley emphasises possession‑based football, a style that served them well in qualifiers but will be tested against higher‑rated opponents. Group G fixtures: 15 June vs Iran (Los Angeles), 21 June vs Egypt (Vancouver), 26 June vs Belgium (Vancouver). Recent warm‑up results: 2‑0 loss to Finland, 4‑1 victory over Chile – the latter marking New Zealand’s first win against a South American nation. Key squad notes: Chris Wood (captain, 89 caps, 45 goals) returning from a serious knee injury; Eli Just (26‑year‑old attacking midfielder) highlighted as a breakout talent. Key Numbers Shaping New Zealand's Chances FIFA ranking: New Zealand 85th – the lowest among qualifiers. Opponents' rankings: Belgium 9th, Egypt 29th, Iran 21st. Recent form: 10 friendlies since qualification – 1 draw, 7 losses, 2 wins (including the Chile win). Defensive record in OFC qualifiers: 14 wins, 1 draw, 4 goals conceded, 64 goals scored. Chris Wood: 45 international goals; his fitness is a decisive factor according to commentator Paul Ifill. What Qualification Means for New Zealand Football Qualifying for a third World Cup marks the culmination of a decade‑long professionalisation drive. The tournament offers a platform to showcase the growing depth of New Zealand talent, attract higher‑profile overseas contracts, and inspire grassroots participation across the country. Success would also narrow the historic gap between New Zealand and other Oceania nations, reinforcing the All Whites as the region’s benchmark. Projected Path Through Group G and Beyond Analysts suggest that a disciplined defensive setup combined with swift counter‑attacks could earn New Zealand a point against Iran and a potential upset versus Egypt. A win or draw against Belgium appears unlikely, but a narrow loss would still leave the team in contention for a third‑place finish and a possible advancement on goal difference. Best‑case scenario: 1 win (vs Iran), 1 draw (vs Egypt), finish 3rd, advance on goal difference. Most‑likely scenario: 1 point (draw vs Iran), finish 4th, exit at group stage. Key variables: Wood’s fitness, midfield cohesion (Joe Bell, Eli Just), and Bazeley’s tactical flexibility. Regardless of the outcome, the All Whites’ participation will be a milestone for New Zealand football, offering valuable experience that could fuel future World Cup cycles.

France's World Cup Preparation Takes Unexpected TurnFrance brushed aside concerns after suffering a surprise 2-1 defeat by Ivory Coast in a World Cup warm-up match, insisting the setback would serve as a useful reminder rather than a cause for alarm ahead of the tournament. Didier Deschamps' side led through a superb first-half goal from Rayan Cherki on Thursday, but were overrun after the break as Guela Doue and Amad Diallo turned the game around for the Elephants in Nantes.Key Moments in Nantes FriendlyThe match showcased contrasting halves of football for France. The defending champions dominated the opening 45 minutes, taking the lead through Cherki's clinical finish. However, after halftime, France made numerous substitutions and lost control of the contest as Ivory Coast's pace and intensity overwhelmed them. The Elephants' equalizer and subsequent winner demonstrated their potential to challenge established nations in international competitions.France's Experimental ApproachWith France opening their World Cup campaign against Senegal in New York on June 16, several key players were rested after last weekend's Champions League final triumph. Midfielder Aurelien Tchouameni emphasized that the result should be viewed in the context of preparations rather than as a warning sign."It's a pity to lose but we're in a preparation phase, we stay confident," Tchouameni said. "There is no conclusion to draw from this game, even if we had won it. We will be ready."Defender Lucas Hernandez also played down the significance of the defeat, noting the numerous substitutions made during the match."We always want to win but we're in a phase of preparation and there were a lot of substitutions," Hernandez said. "We're in good spirits."Tournament Implications and LessonsDeschamps admitted his side had lost control of the contest after an encouraging opening 45 minutes and warned that France would face opponents with similar qualities in the United States."A defeat is never pleasant, even if we did some good things in the first half," Deschamps said. "In the second half we made a lot of changes but that's no excuse. We were not as good after the break and they brought a lot of pace. We will face the same type of team on June 16."The France coach suggested the result could prove useful if it prevented his players from becoming complacent before the tournament."It's a reminder, if we needed one, not to think we're better than we are," he said, with Cherki adding: "It's a little warning, and I can tell you we're not going to the World Cup thinking we're favourites but we're going to crush everyone."Outlook for France's World Cup CampaignDespite the unexpected defeat, France appears focused on their upcoming challenge against Senegal. The match against Ivory Coast, while resulting in a loss, may provide valuable lessons for a team that has been among the favorites in recent international tournaments. The experimental nature of the squad and the opportunity to test different combinations against a competitive African side could prove beneficial as the tournament progresses.

GLP‑1 Medications Show Promise in Reducing Breast Cancer IncidenceRecent analyses presented at the American Society of Clinical Oncology (ASCO) annual meeting in Chicago suggest that patients using GLP‑1 receptor agonists—a class of weight‑loss drugs—experienced a 30% lower likelihood of being diagnosed with breast cancer compared with non‑users.Study cohort: 110,000 women aged 45‑80.Risk reduction: 30% for breast cancer onset.Lead researcher: Dr Elizabeth McDonald, University of Pennsylvania.Adjunctive Use of GLP‑1 Drugs Cuts Breast Cancer MortalityA separate investigation involving 27,000 breast‑cancer patients in Italy reported that adding a GLP‑1 agent to standard therapy was associated with a 30% decrease in cancer‑related death.Institution: IRCCS Istituto Romagnolo per lo Studio dei Tumori Dino Amadori, Meldola.Outcome: 30% lower mortality risk.Broad Cancer‑Spread Benefits Observed Across Multiple Tumor TypesData from the Cleveland Clinic, covering 12,000 patients with breast, lung, colorectal or liver cancer, indicated a 38‑50% reduction in progression to stage‑four disease among GLP‑1 users.Study size: 12,000 patients.Risk reduction range: 38%–50% for metastatic spread.Why These Findings Matter for Public Health and OncologyThe consistency of risk‑reduction signals across incidence, mortality and metastasis points to a potential paradigm shift: drugs originally designed for diabetes and obesity may become adjunct tools in cancer prevention and treatment. If confirmed, the impact could be substantial given the prevalence of obesity and the high incidence of breast cancer worldwide.Next Steps: Clinical Trials and Regulatory ConsiderationsExperts caution that the current evidence is observational. Ongoing randomized controlled trials will be needed to disentangle the effects of weight loss from direct pharmacologic actions of GLP‑1 agonists. Regulatory bodies may eventually evaluate these agents for oncologic indications, pending robust trial data.

The Lead: Roni Horn's Artistic JourneyAt 70 years old, renowned artist Roni Horn presents "Seizure of Hope," her first solo exhibition in London in a decade at the prestigious Hauser and Wirth gallery. The exhibition features 76 graphite drawings exploring the complex emotion of being "paralysed with hope," a phrase that has become central to Horn's recent work. This comes after a notable incident where Horn was removed from a flight due to a dispute with a flight attendant, an experience that reflects her androgynous identity and quiet rebellion against authority in today's world.The Exhibition: Visualizing ParadoxStepping into the gallery on Savile Row, visitors encounter 76 drawings rendered in "very, very soft" graphite pencil with wax pencil, each repeating the handwritten phrase "I am paralysed with hope." The installation is deliberately arranged with uneven gaps between frames, creating spaces where meaning slips and falters. Horn describes these works as capturing "an endless silent scream feeling," born from her experience of losing friends and observing how "the last thing to go is hope" during illness.The exhibition also includes a solid cast glass sculpture resembling a large ice cube, titled "What Happens to the Hole When the Cheese is Gone?"—a reference to Bertolt Brecht. This piece, made by pouring molten glass into a mould that hardens slowly over months, embodies Horn's fascination with ambiguity and the in-between states of existence.Artistic Philosophy: Embracing AmbiguityHorn's work consistently explores themes of mirroring, doubling, and repetition. She deliberately avoids direct answers, embracing ambiguity as a core artistic principle. Her approach is described as "serenely anti-authoritarian, revelling in the absurd and the contradictory." The unpindownable nature of her work, which spans photography, drawing, sculpture, and film, gives it vitality and presence without ostentation.The phrase "I am paralysed with hope" first captured Horn's attention around the time of "the political downfall of America" and has since appeared in multiple works, including her conceptual diary LOG created during lockdown and her 2023 exhibition at Centro Botin. The smudged, varied handwriting in the drawings reflects Horn's self-described "atrocious" handwriting that once required multiple signatures for banking purposes.Cultural Context: Art in Turbulent TimesHorn's work resonates particularly strongly in contemporary society, where contradictions and uncertainties abound. Her exploration of hope as both paralyzing and enduring speaks to the collective experience of living through political and social upheaval. The artist's experience of being removed from a flight due to a seemingly minor incident underscores the tensions present in today's world, particularly for those who don't fit conventional expectations.The exhibition's title, "Seizure of Hope," suggests both a capture and a taking of hope—a complex relationship that Horn explores through her repetitive, meditative drawings. This approach to hope as something that persists even in darkness offers a nuanced perspective on human resilience in challenging times.Future Directions: The Persistence of HopeAs Horn continues to create work that embraces ambiguity and contradiction, her exploration of hope appears likely to remain central to her artistic practice. The artist's commitment to staying "in the unknown and the in-between" suggests future works that will continue to challenge viewers' expectations and offer spaces for reflection on the complexities of human experience.The exhibition at Hauser and Wirth represents not just a showcase of Horn's current work but a continuation of her decades-long exploration of material, form, and meaning. As she approaches her eighth decade, Horn shows no signs of diminishing her artistic ambition or her willingness to confront difficult emotions and ideas through her distinctive visual language.