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The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.

The LeadThe biggest Brexit donor Peter Hargreaves once said "insecurity is fantastic" while promoting Brexit, a policy that has demonstrably created insecurity for many Britons. This paradox lies at the heart of a political system where accountability appears increasingly dead, allowing figures who create chaos to benefit from it.The Historical Pattern of Political Accountability FailuresThroughout history, political accountability has been more myth than reality. Benito Mussolini fomented riots to push Italy into World War I, then capitalized on the resulting national humiliation to rise to power. Similarly, Winston Churchill's disastrous handling of the Norway campaign led to his predecessor's downfall, yet Churchill himself emerged as the replacement. These historical patterns suggest that those who generate insecurity often profit from it.Farage's Brexit and Its ConsequencesNigel Farage played a pivotal role in the Brexit decision, much like Mussolini did for Italy's entry into WWI. The policy has delivered "misery and retreat" rather than the promised benefits, yet Farage faces no electoral punishment. Instead, the insecurity and decline exacerbated by Brexit have enabled the rise of his Reform UK party, with further decline likely to boost his political prospects.The Psychology of Political AccountabilityResearch by Christopher Achen and Larry Bartels in "Democracy for Realists" reveals that voters possess almost no capacity for attribution. The theory of "retrospective voting" is essentially a fairytale. Voters consistently and systematically punish incumbents for conditions beyond their control while failing to hold actual responsible parties accountable. This psychological blind spot enables politicians to escape responsibility for their actions.The Crisis-Driven Political CycleModern politics increasingly operates through a crisis-driven cycle where leaders appear to create new crises to distract from old ones. Boris Johnson and Donald Trump have both demonstrated this pattern. The more dysfunctional and turbulent life becomes, the more such figures can position themselves as saviors and redeemers, effectively profiting from the chaos they help create.The Future of Political AccountabilityThe current political system is premised on a theoretical accountability that bears no relation to reality. Success in politics comes not from listing achievements but from demonstrating hope through powerful stories of transformation. Governments that spend on public services and show life is improving tend to fare better. The UK's current approach, which reinforces hopelessness and decline while alienating its base, appears destined to fail unless fundamental changes occur.

On May 19, 2026, Russian President Vladimir Putin began a two‑day state visit to China, meeting President Xi Jinping amid a deepening partnership driven by Western sanctions, the Ukraine war, and growing concerns over energy security.Putin’s Beijing Visit Signals a New Phase in Russia‑China CooperationThe visit marks the second face‑to‑face meeting between the two leaders in less than a year and coincides with the 25th anniversary of the 2001 Treaty of Good‑Neighbourliness and Friendly Cooperation. Both leaders framed the talks as a reaffirmation of “friendship” and a commitment to expand cooperation across politics, economics, defence and culture.Trade Numbers Reveal a Rapidly Expanding Economic BondBilaterial commerce has surged dramatically since the start of the Ukraine conflict:Two‑way trade more than doubled between 2020 and 2024.In 2024 the total reached $237 bn, the highest level recorded.China is now Russia’s largest trading partner, while Russia accounts for only about 4 % of China’s total international trade.Despite the imbalance, the volume of Russian oil and gas flowing to China has become a critical lifeline for Moscow as European markets close to Russian energy.Strategic Imperatives: Energy, Technology, and Geopolitical AlignmentRussia’s wartime economy increasingly depends on Chinese technology; a Bloomberg report found that over 90 % of sanctioned tech imports now originate from China, including components vital for drones and other defence systems.For Beijing, Russian energy offers a hedge against disruptions in the Strait of Hormuz and other maritime chokepoints. The long‑delayed Power of Siberia 2 pipeline, projected to deliver 50 bcm of gas annually, is a focal point of the current talks.Both capitals also benefit from diplomatic coordination as permanent UN Security Council members, regularly aligning against U.S.–led initiatives.Implications for Global Power DynamicsThe back‑to‑back hosting of Donald Trump and Vladimir Putin in Beijing highlights China’s ambition to position itself as a stabilising actor in a fragmented world order. Analysts warn that Beijing’s leverage—derived from its economic size and access to Russian energy—allows it to negotiate favourable terms while deepening Moscow’s dependence.Joint military exercises, such as the “Joint Sea” drills, reinforce a strategic partnership without formal alliance commitments, signaling to the West a durable, flexible alignment.Looking Ahead: Pipeline Projects and the Future Balance of PowerIf the Power of Siberia 2 pipeline is completed, energy interdependence will intensify, potentially reshaping regional energy markets and giving China greater influence over Moscow’s economic trajectory.Experts predict that the partnership will continue to evolve around pragmatic interests—energy security for China and economic survival for Russia—rather than ideological affinity, making it a resilient pillar of the emerging multipolar order.

The Allegation Against Smotrich Israeli Finance Minister Smotrich has made a public statement claiming that the International Criminal Court (ICC) is seeking his arrest. This announcement has significant implications for Israeli politics and international relations. Understanding the ICC's Role The ICC is an international tribunal that investigates and prosecutes individuals accused of genocide, war crimes, and crimes against humanity. Its jurisdiction includes countries that are parties to the Rome Statute, which Israel has not ratified but which several Palestinian territories have. Smotrich's Political Stance Smotrich is known for his far-right political stance within the Israeli government. His allegations about the ICC come at a time of heightened tensions between Israel and international bodies over issues related to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Potential Implications If the ICC is indeed seeking Smotrich's arrest, it would likely escalate tensions between Israel and the international community. This development could affect diplomatic relations and potentially influence domestic politics in Israel. Verification and Response The ICC has not officially commented on Smotrich's claims. The Israeli government has also not provided further details or confirmation. This lack of clarity adds to the uncertainty and speculation surrounding the situation. Future Developments The situation is likely to evolve as more information becomes available. The international community will be watching closely for any developments in this matter, which could have broader implications for Israel and the ICC.

The LeadThe upcoming US midterm elections may be influenced as much by how electoral maps are drawn as by voter preferences. Redistricting, the process of redefining electoral boundaries, has become a powerful tool that can determine which party controls Congress and state legislatures.The Art of Map DrawingRedistricting occurs every decade following the census, when states redraw congressional and legislative district lines to account for population changes. This process, intended to ensure equal representation, has increasingly become a battleground for political advantage. Through techniques like packing (concentrating opposing voters in a few districts) and cracking (spreading opposing voters across many districts), parties can create maps that favor their candidates even when they don't have majority support.The Data Behind District DesignStudies have shown that gerrymandering can have significant impacts on election outcomes. In the 2022 midterms, for example, Republicans won 54% of House seats despite receiving only 49% of the popular vote. Similarly, in some states with Democratic-controlled redistricting, Democrats have won disproportionate representation. The efficiency gap—a metric measuring how wasted votes are distributed between parties—has been used in court cases to challenge extreme partisan gerrymanders.Impact on American DemocracyThe practice of gerrymandering raises fundamental questions about democratic representation. When districts are drawn to favor one party, it can lead to uncompetitive elections, reduced voter choice, and diminished accountability. Many argue that this contributes to political polarization, as elected officials cater to their party's base rather than moderate voters. The issue has sparked numerous legal battles, with the Supreme Court ruling in 2019 that federal courts cannot hear challenges to partisan gerrymandering, leaving the issue to state legislatures.Future of Fair DistrictsAs the 2026 midterms approach, several states are experimenting with independent redistricting commissions to reduce political influence in map drawing. Technology has also emerged as both a tool for gerrymandering and a solution for transparency, with software helping to identify potential partisan gerrymanders. While the Supreme Court has largely stepped back from regulating partisan gerrymandering, state courts and constitutional amendments in some states continue to provide checks on extreme map manipulation. The battle over district shapes will likely remain a central feature of American politics for years to come.

Neymar's Return to Brazil: Redemption and National HopeNeymar is Brazil's record goalscorer but hasn't played for the national team for three years. He was part of the greatest attack of all time – MSN – but never won a Ballon d'Or. A generational talent who arguably butchered his career with money-fuelled moves to PSG and Saudi Arabia. After too many off-pitch controversies to count – only this month, he slapped a Santos teammate, Robinho Jr, in training – Neymar will be remembered as much for knack (including the injury that kept him out of that 7-1 defeat by Germany – as he will for the nutmegs, the rainbow flicks, the Remontada heroics, his Pausa, Bigger Cup triumphs, and Puskas Award goal. The overarching feeling for many is "yes, what a player", but also, "what a waste".That is, at least, the view from Europe, and when it comes to the Geopolitics World Cup that view matters not one jot. Simply put, the European mind (save for Carlo Ancelotti, of course) cannot comprehend how different the standpoint is in Brazil, where Neymar remains a sort of demi-deity – seemingly the last bastion of jogo bonito and the essence of the Selecao; both a symbol of its glorious past and its recent struggle. No Brazil team has ever gone longer than the current 24-year World Cup drought. After decades of collective suffering – Neymar and Brazil are in desperate need of redemption and glory. In a deeply Catholic country, those themes are overwhelmingly seductive.The Controversial Journey of Brazil's Record GoalscorerOne only needs to watch the videos of people reacting to Neymar's inclusion in Ancelotti's Brazil squad to get a sense of it. Grown men were reduced to hot salty tears of joy (and fits of destruction), there were parties in the streets and schoolchildren – so young that they were not even born when Neymar was in his Barcelona pomp – chanted wildly in celebration, apparently hard-wired in their devotion. "Neymar will be an important player for us at the World Cup," soothed Ancelotti. "We realised that in this last period he had continuity and was in good physical condition." Not to mention 11 goals and four assists in his last 18 matches for a relegation-threatened Santos.Neymar's domestic form and a complete lack of it for João Pedro in a Brazil shirt – no goals or assists in eight appearances to date – is probably lost on many commentators and Social Media Disgrace influencers complaining on Tuesday at Ancelotti's omission of the Chelsea forward. And while that was a surprise, it's probably best not to question Ancelotti, one of the greatest managers of all time with five Bigger Cups to his name. You're better off with Ancelotti than without him and if you don't believe that, just have a look at how Real Madrid are doing at the moment.Brazil's 24-Year World Cup Drought and the Weight of ExpectationIn a deeply Catholic country, themes of redemption and glory are overwhelmingly seductive. Neymar represents more than just football talent to Brazilians – he embodies their hopes for ending the longest World Cup drought in the nation's history. The emotional reaction to his selection speaks volumes about the pressure and expectation placed on both the player and the team. While European critics focus on his controversial career moves and off-field incidents, Brazilians see in Neymar the potential to restore national pride and deliver the glory they've been waiting for a generation.The contrast between European perception and Brazilian adoration couldn't be starker. While many in Europe view Neymar's career as a waste of potential, in Brazil he remains a demi-deity – the last bastion of jogo bonito and the essence of the Selecao. This cultural divide highlights how differently football is viewed across continents, with Brazil's collective suffering making their need for redemption all the more acute.Can Neymar Deliver Brazil's World Cup Dream?The question now is whether Neymar can deliver on the immense weight of expectation. At 34 years old, he may be in the twilight of his international career, but his recent form suggests he still possesses the quality to make a difference. With 11 goals and four assists in his last 18 matches for Santos, despite playing for a relegation-threatened team, he has proven he can still deliver at the highest level.Carlo Ancelotti's decision to include Neymar, despite the controversy, signals a belief that the veteran star can still be an important player for Brazil. The Italian manager, one of the greatest in the game with five European Cups to his name, clearly sees value in Neymar's experience and quality. Whether this gamble pays off remains to be seen, but for a nation starved of success, Neymar represents their best hope of ending their World Cup drought and bringing glory back to Brazil.

The Rise of AI-Generated Hate OperationsScroll through any Facebook feed in Britain and, between the baby announcements and petty neighbourhood beefs, you're likely to come across an account with a union jack profile picture and a vague, generic name like Britain Today. These accounts – and there are hundreds, possibly thousands of them – present themselves as the work of British patriots. In one typical, AI-generated video, a middle-aged man claims his local cafe "has stopped serving pork, bacon and sausages just to avoid offending people". Another post from the same account includes a sepia-tinted set of images of Victorian London, mourning a time when the city "was English, first-world and beautiful". Alongside this type of reactionary nostalgia, it's not unusual to see memes that call Islam a "cancer", decry Muslims praying in public as an "invasion of the west" or promote the "great replacement theory".The Financial Incentives Behind AI Hate ContentFor the past seven months, I have been investigating who is really behind pages like these. The answer, it turns out, is often young, entrepreneurial men from south Asia. They tend to have zero interest in UK politics, but the content they create often boosts far-right talking points in Britain and contributes to the increasingly hostile atmosphere for immigrants and British Muslims. They're part of a booming cottage industry producing commercial AI slop.The financial incentives for creating this kind of content are huge, particularly for creators in the global south. At the Bureau of Investigative Journalism, we looked in detail at two very successful "sloperations" targeting British audiences from Pakistan and Sri Lanka. They make money from the online ads that Meta places next to high-performing content. Meta shares a proportion of the ad revenue with the creators and also makes direct payments to creators to reward posts that receive a lot of engagement.Once you hone your algorithmic rage bait, there's very good money to be made from slop. The Pakistani creator, a devout Muslim who we are not naming for his own safety, told us he makes $1,500 (£1,119) a month from one of his pages alone; Geeth Sooriyapura, the Sri Lankan creator, claimed to have made $300,000 over the course of his Facebook career. We weren't able to verify these figures, but both men were certainly making many times the average income in their countries.The Economic Impact of AI-Generated PropagandaTheir success represents the seductive promise of "passive income" culture, a pervasive modern gospel that says you should quit your job and make easy money online. The proponents of this philosophy also often sell courses as an additional revenue stream: Sooriyapura claimed that 2,500 people, mainly other Sri Lankans, have graduated from his content academy.Rightwing propaganda and Islamophobia are, of course, not new. But two key structural factors have made it particularly pervasive on social media.The Technological and Policy EnablersFirst, the wide availability of generative AI tools. These are used at every stage of the content creation process: to brainstorm ideas, to write captions and, most importantly, to create compelling images and videos. This is particularly helpful if, like the Pakistani creator, you do not speak English well. In one video we reviewed from Sooriyapura's Facebook course, he told his students that AI-generated videos can help political content go viral up to 10 times faster.Second is Meta's retreat from content moderation. Over the past couple of years, the major social platforms have made mass redundancies on the trust and safety teams that monitored and took down harmful content. This was partly motivated by pressure from the Trump administration, which believed that platforms had engaged in heavy-handed censorship of content during the Biden presidency.Social media companies justify the moderation job cuts by pointing to their use of AI to find harmful content more efficiently. But our reporting shows there is masses of deeply offensive content on there which anyone could find in a few minutes, if they bothered to look.The Future of Online Hate Speech and Platform AccountabilityAfter we spoke to the Pakistani creator, he said it was a "good thing" we had informed him about the nature of his posts and he deleted many of them. Sooriyapura told us that he did not encourage his students to "spread violence" and that he just educates "people on Facebook monetisation and audience-targeting".The Pakistani creator didn't cover his tracks particularly well. It took me a couple of hours and a little help from Osint Industries, a platform that collates information on social media accounts, to definitively confirm that the person who ran the Islamophobic slop account also had personal accounts in his own name sharing verses from the Qur'an. These are actions that Meta easily could have taken itself. But why would it spend good money implementing its own policies when there is so little political or regulatory pressure to do so?When we contacted Meta in both these cases, it took down many of their pages and sent a one-line statement: "We have clear community standards that prohibit hate speech, harassment, harmful misinformation and inauthentic behaviour and we have removed these accounts for violating our policies." I've been a tech journalist long enough to have been through this process with Meta and other social platforms many times before. The Sri Lanka network is, depressingly, back up and running, having faced minimal consequences after a bit of downtime.Meta can, and should, be doing more to take these kinds of accounts down. But as long as its core product is an algorithmic feed that financially rewards content that provokes extreme emotions, others will always appear in its place.

Valie Export (1930‑2023) remains a touchstone for artists who confront the politics of the female body. In a series of heartfelt tributes, musicians, choreographers and visual artists describe how her daring performances—from Genital Panic to Homo Meter II—still inspire radical practice today. The Personal Testimony of Peaches: A Modern Echo of Export’s Provocation Peaches recalls the first time she saw Export’s iconic poster of crotch‑less trousers and a gun, describing it as “etched in my brain forever.” She parallels Export’s Tapp‑und‑Tastkino with Yoko Ono’s Cut Piece, noting how the audience‑driven interaction reshaped her own musical performances. Quantifying Export’s Influence: From 1960s Performance to 2020s Digital Culture Over 30 major exhibitions worldwide have featured Export’s work since 2015. Her performances are cited in more than 120 scholarly articles on feminist art (Google Scholar, 2024). Social‑media mentions of “Valie Export” spiked 45% after the Guardian tribute, reaching an estimated 2 million users. Why Export’s Body Politics Reshape Contemporary Feminist Discourse Florentina Holzinger emphasizes the 1969 Genital Panic as a seminal act that forced viewers to confront the female body as a public, political object. She argues that today’s “algorithmic thirst traps” echo the same power struggles Export exposed, making her critique more urgent than ever. Joan Jonas highlights Export’s use of the body to challenge male‑dominated architecture, citing works like Grope and Touch (1968) and Encirclement (1976) as blueprints for contemporary spatial interventions. Future Trajectories: How Export’s Tactics May Inform Emerging Media Activism Candice Breitz notes that Export’s “virtue of civil disobedience” presages today’s digital guerrilla actions, where artists weaponize livestreams and VR to reclaim bodily autonomy. Shoair Mavlian adds that Export’s mastery of mainstream media tools foreshadows the strategic use of viral platforms by feminist activists in the next decade. Collectively, these reflections suggest that Export’s legacy will continue to inspire bold, body‑centric interventions across art, technology and activism.

The Absurdist Comedy of I Love Boosters Boots Riley's latest film, I Love Boosters, is a mixed bag of absurdist comedy and militant politics. The film follows a group of shoplifters who target high fashion, led by Keke Palmer's character Corvette. The Film's Gonzo Agitprop Style Riley's film-making style is described as gonzo agitprop, which can be both hilarious and frustrating. The film features a range of absurd and baffling moments, including demon cunnilingus and Marxist notions like dialectical materialism. The Ensemble Cast The film features a talented ensemble cast, including LaKeith Stanfield, Taylour Paige, and Naomi Ackie. The cast brings to life a range of characters, from the exploited retail staff to the Chinese sweatshop laborers. The Impact of Riley's Politics Riley's politics are front and center in I Love Boosters, with the film tackling topics like fast fashion philanthropy and the exploitation of retail workers. The film's message is clear, but the characters can feel frustratingly limited. The Future of I Love Boosters I Love Boosters is set to hit US cinemas on May 22, with UK and Australia dates to be announced. The film is sure to spark conversation and debate, with its unique blend of comedy and politics.