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Business May 20, 2026

Sustainable Fashion's Hypocrisy Exposed: When Everlane Meets Shein

The sustainable fashion movement faces credibility crises as ethical brands like Everlane consider …
The Great Greenwashing: When Sustainability Meets Fast Fashion It was always about the money, wasn't it? For a while there, it seemed like the execs opining "sustainability is not a trend, it's the future" actually meant it. But when yet another global brand drops its net zero goals or stops talking about DEI, you do wonder. Recent headlines include Stella McCartney adulterating her eco gloss with a sustainable capsule collection for H&M; – don't worry, she's just "infiltrating from within" – and Lululemon being investigated for PFAS. The letdowns keep coming. The Everlane-Shein Merger: A Collision of Ideals Now the internet is reeling from a report that Shein plans to acquire Everlane, the San Francisco-based sustainable basics brand built on "radical transparency". Shein is the Chinese ultra-fast fashion giant epitomising murky supply chains and crazy-cheap landfill fashion. They release up to 10,000 styles a day, and have been making headlines of their own over secrecy and alleged links to forced Uyghur labor. Fashion reporter Lauren Sherman reported the acquisition plans this week, though neither Shein nor Everlane have confirmed. Everlane appears to be losing money fast. After layoffs in 2020 and 2023, the brand confirmed in April it was closing its San Francisco office. The Financial Calculus Behind Sustainable Fashion's Fall According to Sherman, Shein sees value in the brand's supply chain and was the only one willing to stump up the US $100m asked by Everlane's majority owner, private equity giant L Catterton (which is backed by LVMH, and owned RM Williams before Australian billionaire Andrew Forrest bought it in 2020). Shein can afford it – last year, their sales topped £2bn in the UK and $1.5bn in Australia. For my money, I bet it's not just the practical capabilities of the supply chain that interests Shein, it's the story. They could use a green glow-up. The Shifting Landscape of Ethical Fashion The Everlane tragedy follows last month's Allbirds comedy. Another publicly listed sustainable fashion company driven by Silicon Valley hype, Allbirds has given up making sneakers out of carbon neutral materials in order to flog AI. The surprise pivot came with a name change – NewBird – and a cynical cash grab. The old bird had been leaking money; the new one sent stock surging 600%. I visited Allbirds HQ the same year I interviewed Preysman. We discussed their B Corp journey, material innovation and how co-founder Joey Zwillinger reckoned "at the end of the day, people don't buy sustainable products, they buy great product experiences". I titled the podcast episode 'The Eco-Awesomeness of Allbirds – Sustainable Shoes for Changemakers'. The Future of Sustainability: Beyond Greenwashing So how do we navigate this moment? Accept it: sustainability is not hot right now. OK! This was never meant to be a popularity contest. The movement needs to get back to basics. Circularity won't save us – we must focus on workers' rights and the just transition. Have hard conversations about overproduction. Dismantle consumerism as the dominant narrative and define a properly radical approach to system change. You can't take the politics out of this, but why would you want to? As the last few months have shown us, when sustainability becomes purely about the business case, it stops meaning anything at all.
#Everlane #Shein #sustainable fashion
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Politics May 20, 2026

The Death of Accountability: Nigel Farage's Path to No 10

George Monbiot argues that the political system's failure to hold leaders accountable enables figur…
The LeadThe biggest Brexit donor Peter Hargreaves once said "insecurity is fantastic" while promoting Brexit, a policy that has demonstrably created insecurity for many Britons. This paradox lies at the heart of a political system where accountability appears increasingly dead, allowing figures who create chaos to benefit from it.The Historical Pattern of Political Accountability FailuresThroughout history, political accountability has been more myth than reality. Benito Mussolini fomented riots to push Italy into World War I, then capitalized on the resulting national humiliation to rise to power. Similarly, Winston Churchill's disastrous handling of the Norway campaign led to his predecessor's downfall, yet Churchill himself emerged as the replacement. These historical patterns suggest that those who generate insecurity often profit from it.Farage's Brexit and Its ConsequencesNigel Farage played a pivotal role in the Brexit decision, much like Mussolini did for Italy's entry into WWI. The policy has delivered "misery and retreat" rather than the promised benefits, yet Farage faces no electoral punishment. Instead, the insecurity and decline exacerbated by Brexit have enabled the rise of his Reform UK party, with further decline likely to boost his political prospects.The Psychology of Political AccountabilityResearch by Christopher Achen and Larry Bartels in "Democracy for Realists" reveals that voters possess almost no capacity for attribution. The theory of "retrospective voting" is essentially a fairytale. Voters consistently and systematically punish incumbents for conditions beyond their control while failing to hold actual responsible parties accountable. This psychological blind spot enables politicians to escape responsibility for their actions.The Crisis-Driven Political CycleModern politics increasingly operates through a crisis-driven cycle where leaders appear to create new crises to distract from old ones. Boris Johnson and Donald Trump have both demonstrated this pattern. The more dysfunctional and turbulent life becomes, the more such figures can position themselves as saviors and redeemers, effectively profiting from the chaos they help create.The Future of Political AccountabilityThe current political system is premised on a theoretical accountability that bears no relation to reality. Success in politics comes not from listing achievements but from demonstrating hope through powerful stories of transformation. Governments that spend on public services and show life is improving tend to fare better. The UK's current approach, which reinforces hopelessness and decline while alienating its base, appears destined to fail unless fundamental changes occur.
#Nigel Farage #Brexit #UK Politics
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Politics May 20, 2026

Xi Jinping and Putin Meet in Beijing Amid Shifting Global Dynamics

Chinese President Xi Jinping welcomed Russian President Vladimir Putin for high-level talks in Beij…
The Lead: A Diplomatic Pivot in BeijingChinese President Xi Jinping welcomed Russian President Vladimir Putin with military ceremony and pageantry in the Great Hall of the People, marking a significant diplomatic meeting just days after Xi hosted US President Donald Trump in the same location. The high-profile summit underscores China's delicate diplomatic balancing act between major global powers as it navigates complex international relationships.The Event Details: Ceremonial Beginnings and Diplomatic StructureThe meeting began with a formal ceremony featuring Chinese soldiers in position as a military band played the Russian and Chinese national anthems. Children waving both countries' flags cheered "Welcome, welcome!" in Chinese before the leaders entered the Great Hall. The talks followed a structured format, beginning with a "narrow format meeting" featuring fewer delegates to discuss sensitive issues, followed by a "wide format meeting" with full delegations. Chinese Foreign Minister Wang Yi, who greeted Putin upon his arrival, also held talks with his Russian counterpart Sergei Lavrov.The Strategic Context: Balancing Global RelationshipsThe timing of Putin's visit, coming so soon after Trump's meeting with Xi, has drawn significant attention to China's diplomatic positioning. In his opening remarks, Xi expressed concerns about the world reverting to the "law of the jungle," while Putin hailed the countries' relationship as being at an "unprecedented level." The contrast between China's approach to Putin versus Trump is notable, with the warm relationship between Xi and Putin standing in contrast to the more adversarial nature of US-China relations. The leaders have developed increasingly close ties, referring to each other as "dear" and "old" friends in recent years.The Global Implications: Regional Conflicts and Economic AlliancesBoth leaders addressed the Middle East crisis during their talks, with Xi stating that further hostilities were "inadvisable" and that a "comprehensive ceasefire is of utmost urgency." Meanwhile, Putin emphasized Russia's role as a "reliable energy supplier" amid the ongoing crisis. For Putin, reciprocal trade and investment are likely top priorities as his sanctions-hit economy continues to suffer under the growing cost of Moscow's war in Ukraine. Notably, as Xi prepared to welcome Putin, China confirmed it will purchase 200 Boeing jets and seek an extension of the trade agreement with the US reached in Kuala Lumpur last year, signaling China's continued economic engagement with multiple global powers.The Future Outlook: Evolving International DynamicsThe optics and outcomes of Xi's meeting with Putin will be carefully analyzed, particularly given its proximity to the Trump visit. The summit highlights China's strategy of engaging with multiple major powers simultaneously while maintaining its own strategic interests. Putin's invitation for Xi to visit Russia next year suggests the continuation of this warming relationship. As global power dynamics continue to shift, China's ability to navigate complex relationships with both Russia and the US will remain a critical factor in international diplomacy, with potential implications for everything from regional conflicts to global economic stability.
#Xi Jinping #Vladimir Putin #China-Russia relations
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Politics May 20, 2026

Britain’s Brexit Rut Threatens Its Role as Global Power Realigns

The Guardian column argues that while the US‑China summit underscores a fast‑moving global power sh…
Britain’s Brexit Impasse in a Rapidly Realigning World OrderThe article notes that as Donald Trump and Xi Jinping concluded a two‑hour bilateral summit, the UK’s political discourse was consumed by internal Labour turmoil and a lingering Brexit narrative. This juxtaposition highlights how domestic preoccupations eclipse pivotal geopolitical developments.Trump‑Xi Summit Highlights the New Superpower BalanceThe meeting in Beijing, though publicly cordial, signalled China’s ascent to near parity with the United States across economic and technological dimensions. While the summit received scant attention in British constituencies such as Makerfield, its strategic implications are profound for any nation seeking influence.Economic Ripples from Gulf Tensions and Brexit CostsDisruption in the Strait of Hormuz raises global oil prices, feeding UK inflation and pressuring the Bank of England.Brexit‑related regulatory divergence adds compliance costs for UK businesses operating in Europe.Higher gilt yields increase the UK government’s debt‑service burden, limiting fiscal space for public investment.These figures illustrate how external shocks intersect with the lingering economic fallout of Brexit, constraining Britain’s fiscal flexibility.Why Britain’s Domestic Focus Undermines Its Global InfluenceLabour leader Keir Starmer and mayor Andy Burnham prioritize “relentless domestic focus” to win local elections, sidelining debates on Britain’s place in a multipolar world. The article argues that this strategy reinforces a Brexit‑driven narrative that isolates the UK from collective European strength and leaves it dependent on US tech and industrial lobbies.Potential Paths Forward: Re‑engage with Europe or Remain IsolatedIf Britain chooses to partner with its European neighbours, it could leverage continental wealth and coordinated investment to regain strategic relevance. Conversely, persisting in a “Brexit‑only” stance risks relegating the UK to a peripheral role in the emerging global order.
#Rafael Behr #Britain #Brexit
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Sports May 20, 2026

Arsenal Ends 19-Year Drought as Arteta Delivers Premier League Title

Arsenal Football Club has ended their 19-year Premier League drought under manager Mikel Arteta, wh…
The Lead: Arsenal's Long-Awaited Triumph After an incredible 984 days at the top of the table without being champions, Arsenal Football Club has finally ended their 19-year Premier League drought. The club's faithful supporters, who have waited since the unforgettable 2003-04 season when Arsène Wenger's Invincibles went the top-flight campaign unbeaten, can now celebrate as Mikel Arteta's side has proven they are capable of holding their nerve when it matters most. The Event Details: Arteta's Transformation Journey The ever-meticulous Arteta arrived at the club a week before Christmas in 2019 on a mission to restore them to former glories. After spending his first three months talking to "everybody at the club with a lot of different roles," he introduced the olive tree dating back to 1886 when Arsenal was founded, symbolizing the roots of the club and the culture he was attempting to foster. After laying down a marker in December 2021 when the former captain Pierre-Emerick Aubameyang was jettisoned after one indiscretion too many, the manager has been allowed to build a squad in his image by American owners happy to trust in his expertise. The Data Analysis: Building a Championship Squad Arsenal's executives remained quietly convinced this would be their year after an outlay of £250m on eight arrivals, including Eberechi Eze from Crystal Palace for £67.5m and Viktor Gyökeres for £64m. All but Christian Nørgaard have made an impact, although a defence that has largely been together for the past three seasons has formed the bedrock of Arsenal's title. Set pieces have played a massive role in their success, breaking the Premier League record for goals scored from corners against Chelsea on 1 March and extending it to 19 against Burnley. More than a third of their 69 goals – the fifth-lowest by the champions in Premier League history – came from set pieces. The Impact Analysis: Changing the Football Landscape Arsenal's triumph represents a significant shift in the balance of power in English football. After years of Manchester City and Liverpool dominance, Arteta's side has proven that financial resources alone don't guarantee success. The club's ability to respond to setbacks – particularly after their disastrous April when they lost twice to Manchester City in a run of four consecutive domestic defeats – demonstrates a newfound resilience. The appointment of Andrea Berta as the new sporting director last March proved a pivotal moment in the club's evolution, with considerable input from Arteta helping to assemble a squad capable of withstanding almost any injury crisis. The Prediction: The Future of Arsenal Football Club With Arsenal set to appear in their second Champions League final, the future looks exceptionally bright for the North London club. The Kroenkes, whose sports empire is estimated to be worth about $23bn (£17bn), have promised in their joint programme notes that "there will be no standing still when the season ends. We are always forward in our approach and relentless in the pursuit of progress." Arteta is poised to sign a lucrative contract extension that will reward his success, and the club's academy products like Bukayo Saka suggest sustainable success is on the horizon. Even if they can't join the elite group of clubs to have achieved the double by beating Paris Saint-Germain in Budapest, Arsenal has firmly reestablished themselves as a force to be reckoned with in both English and European football.
#Arsenal #Mikel Arteta #Premier League
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Tech May 20, 2026

Google Introduces Gmail Live: Conversational AI for Your Inbox

Google has announced Gmail Live, a conversational AI feature for Gmail that allows users to ask que…
The Lead Google has introduced Gmail Live, a new conversational AI feature for Gmail that enables users to interact with their inbox using natural language. This feature, powered by Gemini AI, aims to simplify the process of finding information in emails. Conversational AI in Gmail At Google IO 2026, the tech giant announced an expansion of its “AI Inbox” functionality for Gmail, which includes the new Gmail Live feature. This feature allows users to ask Gmail questions about their inbox content, such as upcoming flights, dentist appointments, or event details, instead of typing in search terms. The Data Analysis Gmail Live will initially be limited to Google AI Ultra subscribers and is expected to roll out later this summer. The feature can answer naturally phrased questions, respond to follow-up questions, and pivot if needed. Gmail Live can pull granular details from emails, such as hotel room numbers, and infer which people are being asked about, even if they’re not explicitly named. The Impact Analysis This development showcases Google's efforts to integrate AI into everyday products and demonstrate its practical applications. By making it easier to find information in emails, Google aims to provide a positive use case for AI technology. The Prediction As Google continues to expand its AI capabilities, we can expect to see more features like Gmail Live in the future. This could lead to a significant shift in how people interact with their email inboxes and other Google services.
#Google #Gmail #AI
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Tech May 19, 2026

With Gemini 3.5 Flash, Google bets its next AI wave on agents, not chatbots

Google has launched Gemini 3.5 Flash, a powerful AI model optimized for autonomous agents rather th…
The Lead: Google's AI Shift Toward Autonomous AgentsGoogle has launched Gemini 3.5 Flash, a new AI model representing the company's strategic pivot from conversational AI to autonomous agents capable of independently executing complex tasks. This move signals Google's bet that the future of AI lies in systems that can plan, build, and iterate on real work with minimal human intervention, rather than simply answering questions.The Technical Breakthrough: Gemini 3.5 Flash CapabilitiesGemini 3.5 Flash, introduced at Google's annual I/O developer conference, represents the company's strongest AI model yet for coding and autonomous agents. The model can independently execute coding pipelines, manage research projects, and, in internal tests, build an operating system entirely from scratch. This capability was demonstrated on stage when Google engineer Varun Mohan showed agents spawning off to work on separate components before coming together to build a full operating system inside Antigravity, Google's agentic development platform.Performance Benchmarks: Speed and EfficiencyThe model's performance is remarkable, according to Koray Kavukcuoglu, DeepMind's chief technologist. Flash 3.5 outperforms Google's latest frontier model, 3.1 Pro, on nearly all benchmarks, including coding, agentic tasks, and multimodal reasoning. Most notably, it's four times faster than other frontier models, with an optimized version that's 12 times faster while maintaining the same quality. This speed is crucial for agentic work, where multiple AI agents run simultaneously on long-running tasks.The Industry Shift: From Chatbots to Autonomous AgentsThe release of Gemini 3.5 Flash marks a significant industry shift from AI as a conversational tool to AI as an agentic tool. Google is positioning this as the next wave of AI technology, where systems don't just answer questions but actively plan, build, and iterate on real work. This transition is already showing impact among partners, with banks and fintechs automating multi-week workflows and data science teams finding insights in complex data environments. The model can run autonomously for multiple hours, though it will pause for human input at decision points requiring judgment.Future Outlook: Google's AI Ecosystem ExpansionLooking ahead, Google is developing a complementary model, 3.5 Pro, designed to work in tandem with Flash. According to Tulsee Doshi, Google's senior director and head of product, 3.5 Pro will serve as the orchestrator and planner, leveraging Flash as various sub-agents for tasks requiring brute force tool use. Gemini 3.5 Flash is now the default model in the Gemini app and AI Mode in Search, with agentic capabilities coming to Search and powering Gemini Spark, Google's new personal AI agent designed to run 24/7. As Google expands these autonomous capabilities, the company faces increasing scrutiny regarding safety and ethical considerations, particularly following past incidents with AI systems.
#Google #Gemini #AI
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Tech May 19, 2026

Google Introduces Gmail Live: AI-Powered Conversational Search

Google has announced Gmail Live, a new AI-powered feature for Gmail that allows users to search the…
Revolutionizing Inbox Search: Gmail Live Google has taken a significant step in integrating AI into its popular email service, Gmail. The tech giant has introduced Gmail Live, a feature that enables users to interact with their inbox using conversational AI. This innovation allows users to ask questions about their emails in natural language, making it easier to find specific information. The Power of Conversational AI Gmail Live is powered by Gemini AI, which enables the feature to understand naturally phrased questions, respond to follow-up questions, and even pivot if needed. This capability is demonstrated through a series of questions about emails, showcasing its ability to pull granular details and infer context. Key Features and Benefits Conversational search using natural language voice commands Ability to ask follow-up questions and pivot topics Pulls granular details from emails, such as hotel room numbers Infers context and identifies people without explicit names Rollout and Availability Gmail Live will initially be available to Google AI Ultra subscribers later this summer. It's essential to note that this feature is not replacing traditional Gmail search but is an additional option for users. Beyond Gmail Live: Other Updates In addition to Gmail Live, Google is introducing other features to Gmail, including: Ready-to-send drafts Instant file access Task management by marking individual tasks as done The AI Inbox experience, launched earlier this year, will also expand to Google AI Pro and Plus subscribers, providing an overview of tasks and items to catch up on in one page.
#Google #Gmail #AI
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Tech May 19, 2026

Google's Universal Cart: The Agentic Shift in E-Commerce

Google is launching Universal Cart and Agent Payments Protocol (AP2) to turn AI assistants into act…
Google I/O 2026 marked a pivotal moment in the evolution of digital commerce. By unveiling Universal Cart and the Agent Payments Protocol (AP2), the tech giant is aggressively pivoting from passive recommendation engines to active, autonomous commerce participants. The Agentic Commerce Ecosystem The core of this strategy is Universal Cart, an "agentic hub" designed to centralize the fragmented shopping experience. Unlike traditional carts, this tool aggregates products from disparate sources—spanning Google Search, Gemini, YouTube, and Gmail—into a single, intelligent interface. This allows users to track price drops, monitor stock availability, and even receive compatibility alerts, such as when a specific processor is incompatible with a selected motherboard. Global Rollout and Protocol Expansion Google is not testing this in isolation. The feature is rolling out in the U.S. today, with the Gemini app following this summer. Crucially, the underlying Universal Commerce Protocol (UCP) is expanding to new verticals like hotels and local food delivery. Furthermore, the protocol is set to expand geographically to Canada, Australia, and eventually the U.K., signaling a global standard for interoperable commerce. Reclaiming the Shopping Journey The most significant shift here is the move from "passive recommendation" to "active participation." By building AP2, Google creates a direct link between the user, the merchant, and the payment processor. This transparency, combined with encryption and tamper-proof digital records, offers a new level of security for autonomous transactions. However, this also grants Google unprecedented visibility into consumer behavior, potentially shifting the balance of power in the digital marketplace. The Future of Autonomous Shopping With AP2, Google is laying the groundwork for a future where AI agents handle the entire checkout process within defined limits. This move suggests a trend where the "middleman" role of the browser or operating system is replaced by the AI assistant, fundamentally altering how consumers interact with merchants.
#Google #Universal Cart #AI Agents
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