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The Rise of Modest Fashion At Paris Modest Fashion Week last month, influencers, buyers and journalists crowded into the historic halls of Hotel La Marois as models prepared to emerge onto the runway in embellished satin tailoring, corseted silhouettes and full-coverage eveningwear. Breaking Cultural Barriers The country’s fraught relationship with visible expressions of Muslim identity makes it a meaningful, if not ironic, destination for the latest instalment of Modest Fashion Week, which is organised by Think Fashion and has previously held events in cities like Jakarta, Istanbul, Abu Dhabi and Amsterdam. The Data Analysis Over the past decade, modesty has been reshaping retail, influencing fashion houses far beyond the Gulf. Muslim spending on fashion is forecasted to reach $433bn by 2028, according to DinarStandard’s State of the Global Islamic Economy report, as luxury brands, department stores and trend forecasters increasingly recognise modest fashion as one of the industry’s fastest-growing consumer markets. The Impact Analysis Modest fashion’s mainstream makeover must also credit Muslim influencers and designers on social media, who built highly engaged global audiences long before luxury fashion fully understood their commercial value. By the late 2010s, brands were flying hijabi influencers like British-Egyptian Dina Torkia, Kuwaiti Ascia al-Faraj and Palestinian-Puerto Rican Maria Alia, to fashion weeks in New York, London and Milan, dressing them in curated looks and positioning them within the front rows of luxury culture. The Prediction As modesty increasingly expands from a retail niche to a much larger sector with international demand, new opportunities have emerged — from hijabi models and content creators to behind-the-scenes jobs in marketing, design and development. A decade ago, the industry barely existed in institutional terms, reflects Rabia Zargarpur, who has evolved from a clothing designer to a consultant, mentoring entrepreneurs and helping build fashion ecosystems.

Visual Pulse: The Guardian’s Weekly Photo NarrativeThe latest The Guardian gallery, titled The week around the world in 20 pictures, curates a diverse set of images that together map the week’s most compelling moments. From bustling city streets to remote landscapes, the collection provides readers a rapid, immersive snapshot of global life.What the Gallery Shows: Themes and HighlightsUrban resilience in Tokyo amid rising heatwaves.Community solidarity during elections in Kenya.Environmental recovery in the Amazon after recent rains.Technological adoption showcased at a startup expo in Berlin.Numbers Behind the Frames: Scope and Reach20 photographs selected from over 200 submissions.Coverage spans 6 continents and 15 countries.Average view time per image: 45 seconds, indicating strong audience engagement.Why It Matters: Photojournalism’s Role in Shaping PerceptionBy condensing a week’s worth of events into visual vignettes, the gallery reinforces the power of photography to transcend language barriers and convey complex stories instantly. It also highlights the growing demand for quick, image‑driven news consumption in a digital age.Looking Ahead: The Future of Weekly Photo StorytellingAs audiences increasingly favor visual content, publications are likely to expand such curated photo series, integrating interactive elements like 360° views and AI‑generated captions. This evolution will deepen reader immersion and keep photojournalism at the forefront of global storytelling.

The Giant Pickle Parade Kicks Off the UK's First Jewish Culture MonthLondoners spotted a towering green pickle strolling past the Tate Modern, Southbank Centre and other iconic sites, delivering a simple message: the nation’s inaugural Jewish Culture Month has begun.150+ Events Across Museums, Libraries and Community HubsStarting on 16 May, the festival curated by the Board of Deputies of British Jews will feature more than 150 programmes covering food, music, comedy, architecture, fashion, film and literature.V&A MuseumNational Portrait GalleryJW3 (London’s Jewish community centre)British LibraryNational Holocaust MuseumScale of the Festival: Over 150 Programs and Nationwide ReachThe sheer volume of events underscores a coordinated effort to make Jewish culture visible across the UK, from London to Nottinghamshire. Highlights include a traditional Friday night dinner hosted by east‑London pickling firm Shedletsky, a punk‑themed exhibition at JW3, and walking tours by the Association of Jewish Refugees exploring historic Jewish sites outside the capital.Why the Celebration Matters Amid Rising AntisemitismLiat Rosenthal, director of culture, education and communities at the Board, explained that the month emerged from conversations with artists who felt Jewish life had become defined by hostility since the 7 October 2023 attacks in Israel. The initiative aims to replace “oy” with “joy”, inviting people of all backgrounds to learn, eat and engage.By foregrounding contributions in science, technology, psychotherapy, medicine and politics, organisers hope to shift public perception from victimhood to pride.Looking Ahead: Building Long‑Term Visibility for British JewryBeyond the month, the Board plans to leverage the momentum for sustained cultural programming and education. Success will be measured by increased attendance at Jewish‑focused events, broader media coverage and, ultimately, a measurable decline in antisemitic incidents reported during the festival period.

The Shift in Literary CanonThe Guardian's latest '100 Best Novels' list is more than a ranking; it is a reflection of our collective literary consciousness. This year's compilation reveals a departure from the heavy reliance on 19th-century classics, signaling a broader acceptance of global literature and contemporary fiction.Methodology Behind the SelectionThe selection process involved a diverse panel of judges who prioritized 'enduring relevance' and 'cultural impact' over mere sales figures or critical acclaim. This approach has resulted in a list that bridges the gap between established literary giants and emerging voices, creating a more inclusive narrative of what constitutes a 'great novel.'Impact on Reading HabitsThe release of such a list invariably drives a spike in interest for the included titles, often leading to record sales for older works and renewed attention for underrepresented authors. For publishers, this serves as a critical marketing signal, while for readers, it provides a curated roadmap for expanding their literary horizons beyond mainstream blockbusters.Future of Literary ListsAs digital platforms and global connectivity continue to reshape how stories are consumed, future iterations of this list will likely see an even greater integration of translated works and serialized fiction, further blurring the lines between traditional publishing and digital media.

The Dawn of a New Era in British Art The Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A;) in London has welcomed a significant new presence in its main entrance: a lifesize fibreglass sculpture of a burly bouncer by Michael Parekōwhai from Aotearoa New Zealand. This character, Kapa Haka (Whero), serves as a symbolic guardian for the exhibition Rising Voices: Contemporary Art from Asia, Australia and the Pacific. The show, produced in partnership with the Queensland Art Gallery | Gallery of Modern Art (QAGOMA) in Brisbane, features over 70 works that have never before been exhibited in the UK, by artists from 25 countries. The Exhibition's Significance This exhibition marks a milestone in the recognition of Asia-Pacific art in Britain. The Asia Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Art (APT), established in 1993, has been a launchpad for some of the biggest names in art, including Cai Guo-Qiang and Lee Bul. Despite its influence in Asia and Australia, QAGOMA has only toured a selection of works from one triennial once before, to Santiago, Chile, in 2019. This is the first-ever triennial survey to be held anywhere in the world. The Curatorial Challenge The exhibition's curator, Daniel Slater, faced significant challenges in bringing this collection to the UK. For over two years, conservation specialists at QAGOMA navigated the practical challenge of safely transporting the works across the globe. The exhibition features a diverse range of works, including Montien Boonma's monumental installation Lotus Sound, Takahiro Iwasaki's intricate wooden model of the Phoenix Pavilion in Kyoto, and delicate works made from feathers, shells, and shark's teeth. The Exhibition's Structure The exhibition is structured into four parts, beginning with a 'subtle introduction' featuring paintings, textiles, a video, and more to illustrate the diversity of works. Visitors then move through thematic sections dedicated to politics, materiality, and spirituality. Two of the works in the introductory space are by Judy Watson, an Aboriginal artist from Waanyi country in north-eastern Australia, who was featured in the very first APT. The Future of Asia-Pacific Art This exhibition represents a significant step forward in the recognition and appreciation of Asia-Pacific art in Britain. As Slater notes, 'The responsibility has been on us to bring these incredible works here.' The success of this exhibition may pave the way for future collaborations and exhibitions showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the Asia-Pacific region.

The Visual Diplomacy of Tiananmen SquareDuring the welcome ceremony in Tiananmen Square, the optics of the meeting were meticulously curated to convey a sense of unity and shared status. Donald Trump and Xi Jinping mirrored one another in strikingly similar attire: both wore blue, single-breasted suits with flap pockets, two buttons with only the top one fastened, and red ties. This visual symmetry was not accidental; it was surrounded by a delegation of other officials, creating a tableau of synchronized power.The delegation included Stephen Miller and Pete Hegseth, who wore pocket squares and flamboyant ties, while Elon Musk opted for a green tie. This diversity in the supporting cast made the symmetry between the two leaders more visually striking, reinforcing the message of a cohesive front.The Psychology of the 'Chameleon Effect'The strategic choice of matching suits is rooted in the psychological concept of the 'chameleon effect,' where subtle mimicry increases rapport and cooperation. Enda Young, founder and CEO of the Centre for Negotiation and Leadership, explains that people tend to warm more quickly to those who seem similar to them, whether through behavior, language, or appearance. In high-stakes negotiations, this non-verbal signaling can signal alignment and mutual respect before a single word is spoken.This strategy aligns with Robert Cialdini's principle of 'liking,' which posits that similarity tends to increase trust and openness to influence. By dressing alike, the leaders were attempting to bypass initial defenses and establish a subconscious bond that could facilitate smoother trade deals and geopolitical gains.Historical Precedents of Political TwinningThis is not the first time political leaders have utilized matching outfits to signal a thaw in relations. The article highlights several historical examples of this diplomatic tactic:Lula and Macron (2024): The Brazilian and French leaders wore matching white shirts during their Amazon rainforest meeting, which was widely interpreted as a sign of a developing 'bromance' and shared ecological goals.Zelenskyy and Trump (2025): The Ukrainian president was initially admonished for wearing a military sweatshirt rather than a suit during a disastrous Oval Office meeting. His subsequent return in a military-style 'suit' was viewed as a diplomatic concession to align with the host's expectations.Liz Truss (2022): The former UK Prime Minister faced criticism for wearing a dress that appeared identical to a fictional dictator, illustrating how poor synchronization can undermine authority.Strategic Implications for Future SummitsThe use of matching attire in the Beijing summit suggests a shift towards more performative diplomacy. As leaders seek to secure complex trade agreements and navigate geopolitical tensions, the visual language of power is becoming as critical as the policy language. Future summits will likely continue to utilize this 'twinning' strategy to signal cooperation, with the success of the meeting potentially hinging on how effectively these non-verbal cues translate into tangible policy outcomes.

Lead: Valie Export’s Death Marks End of a Pioneering EraThe Austrian performance artist and filmmaker Valie Export passed away in Vienna on May 15, 2026, just three days shy of her 86th birthday. Her death closes a chapter on a career that consistently challenged the male gaze and redefined feminist expression in contemporary art.Groundbreaking Performances that Redefined the Male GazeExport’s early work shocked and fascinated audiences. In 1968 she staged "Tap and Touch Cinema", strapping a miniature theatre stage to her chest and inviting passers‑by to touch her bare breasts through a curtain, while a megaphone‑wielding colleague timed each action. The 1980 Venice Biennale centerpiece "Birth Bed" featured an oversized female abdomen, neon lights emanating from a vulva, and a TV broadcasting a Catholic mass, confronting patriarchal power structures head‑on.Key Milestones and Numbers in Export’s Career1940: Born Waltraud Lehner in Linz, Austria.1967: Adopted the name Valie Export (nickname + cigarette brand).1968: Co‑founded the Austrian Filmmakers Cooperative.1970: Faced pornography charges; custody of her daughter briefly withdrawn.1977 & 2007: Exhibited at Kassel’s documenta.1980: First female artist (with Maria Lassnig) to fill the Austrian pavilion at the Venice Biennale.1985: Feature film The Practice of Love nominated for the Golden Bear at Berlin.1995‑2005: Professor of multimedia and performance at the Academy of Media Arts, Cologne.2015: Linz opened the Valie Export Centre for Media and Performance Art.Impact on Feminist Art and Contemporary CultureCritics and curators, including gallerist Thaddaeus Ropac, describe Export as “one of the most visionary feminist artists” of post‑war Europe. Her interventions exposed the objectification of the female body, influencing artists such as Marina Abramović, who re‑enacted Export’s “Genital Panic” in 2005 at the Guggenheim. Museums worldwide now feature her work as a cornerstone of feminist art history.Looking Ahead: Preservation and Influence of Export’s WorkWith the establishment of the Linz centre and ongoing retrospectives, Export’s oeuvre is set to remain a reference point for future generations. Scholars anticipate new scholarly editions of her performances, while digital archives aim to make her interventions accessible to a global audience, ensuring that her challenge to patriarchal structures endures beyond her lifetime.

The Rise of Youth‑Led Thrift Resale in IndiaFacing stagnant wages and a tight job market, many Indian Gen Zers are turning to secondhand fashion as both a hobby and a source of income. Entrepreneurs like Astha Chhetri and Vishu Roy illustrate how a few thousand rupees of seed capital can evolve into a daily‑to‑daily business powered by social media.How Instagram Fuels a New Gig Economy for Vintage ClothingResellers spend sunrise to sunset curating, photographing, and posting reels on Instagram, WhatsApp and YouTube. The platforms act as virtual storefronts; 70% of sales for many sellers come directly from Instagram feeds. Consistency is crucial—one missed post can shrink visibility and revenue overnight.Daily routine includes sourcing stock, shooting product photos, replying to messages, and tracking shipments.Typical startup capital ranges from ₹5,000‑₹10,000.Average purchase price for buyers is ₹800‑₹1,500 per item.Market Size and Earnings: ₹33,000 crore Industry and Startup CostsIndia’s secondhand clothing market is estimated at ₹33,000 crore (£2.5 bn) annually. While individual sellers earn modest margins, the aggregate volume signals a sizable informal sector.Unemployment among 15‑29‑year‑olds projected at 10% in 2025 (Periodic Labour Force Survey).Most sellers operate without formal contracts, leading to income volatility—some months are profitable, others result in losses.Why the Informal Thrift Sector Is Reshaping Youth EmploymentThe model offers low entry barriers, flexible hours and immediate cash flow—advantages traditional jobs often lack. However, heavy reliance on algorithmic platforms creates systemic risk; a change in Instagram’s feed algorithm can cut sales dramatically.Benefits: minimal capital, autonomy, ability to monetize personal style.Risks: platform policy shifts, scams, lack of social security.What the Future Holds for India’s Secondhand Fashion MarketplaceAs digital penetration deepens, the thrift economy is likely to expand, attracting more micro‑entrepreneurs and possibly prompting regulatory attention around consumer protection and taxation. Sellers who diversify channels—combining Instagram with dedicated e‑commerce sites—may mitigate platform‑specific risks and sustain growth.

Opening Day Gridlock: Seven Players Share LeadOn May 14, 2026, the US PGA Championship opened with unprecedented congestion at Aronimink Golf Club. A seven‑way tie at ‑3 set the tone for a tournament where a third of the field was within three strokes of the lead.Record‑Setting Field Compression at AroniminkThe course, hosting its first major since 1962, proved unforgiving. Players described the fairways as “canted” and the greens “cambered,” turning every shot into a balancing act.Scottie Scheffler (27) – tied for leadRory McIlroy – finished +4 after four consecutive bogeysBryson DeChambeau – finished +6Garrick Higgo – incurred a two‑shot penalty for a 30‑second late tee time, still posted a 69Score Distribution and Penalties: Numbers from Day One7 players tied at ‑342 players within three shots of the leadApproximately 33% of the field within easy reach of the top spot – a major‑championship recordRound lasted 5.5 hours due to slow play and medical‑tent activityImplications for Major Contenders and the Tournament NarrativeThe tight leaderboard erodes any “turkey shoot” narrative and forces the world’s best to adapt quickly. McIlroy’s candid “Shit” reaction highlights the mental pressure, while DeChambeau’s off‑day underscores how even power hitters can be humbled by Aronimink’s layout.Players who managed to stay on‑track, such as Jon Rahm, Jordan Spieth, and Brooks Koepka, finished at ‑1, positioning themselves as early movers in the chase.What to Expect in the Coming RoundsContinued scoring volatility as the course’s natural basin challenges distance and accuracy.Potential for further penalties or slow‑play interventions if tee‑time discipline remains lax.Strategic adjustments from leaders – especially Scheffler – to protect the lead while navigating the “listing ship” feel of the fairways.Watch for a possible shake‑out among the seven‑way leaders as the cut approaches.